Friday, January 13, 2012

Haiti #7 - Au Revoir

Dear Friends,

Happy New Year!

I returned to Phoenix 2 weeks ago and am still startled by how quiet life is here; how clean and organized the streets are and how civilized we are to each other.

A few loose ends from my last blog: our Thanksgiving dinner was wonderful! The two women who daily prepare our two meals, had purchased a turkey from the States, not a cheap or easy transaction, and prepared it as tenderly as my mother would have. The women brought mashed potatoes and gravy, ham, green salad, cranberry sauce, black olives, sweet potatoes and cookies. And the turkey was on a special platter with red ribbons on its legs. They brought a Christmas tablecloth and red plastic plates, napkins and plastic ware and were dressed in their Sunday best.

We were speechless and teary. These women prepared a feast for a holiday that they know very little about and do not celebrate, for a group of people that they barely know but smile at twice a day. All we could say was, "Oh my God, Thank You!" There were no leftovers!

A month later, Project Medishare was awarded a grant through the American Red Cross that will enable the hospital to remain open and functioning for another year. A collective 'Thanks God' could be heard throughout the hospital.

I have struggled to know how to articulate the end of this chapter of my Haiti life to you. And today, January 12th, is the second anniversary of the earthquake, a day that is now a 'holiday' of sorts, a day of reflection and prayer in Haiti.

In his book 'The Rum Diary' by Hunter S. Thompson, there is a quote about his time in Puerto Rico which struck me as describing present day Haiti and some of my conflicted feelings:
"But I knew that I was coming to a point where I would have to make up my mind
about Puerto Rico. I had been there three months and it had seemed like three weeks.
So far, there was nothing to get hold of, none of the real pros and cons I had found
in other places. All the while I had been in San Juan I'd condemned it without really disliking
it. I felt that sooner or later I would see that third dimension, that depth that makes a
city real and that you never see until you have been there a while. But the longer I stayed,
the more I came to suspect that for the first time in my life I had come to a
place where this vital dimension didn't exist, or was too nebulous to make any difference.
Maybe, God forbid, the place was what it appeared to be-a melange of Okies and
thieves and bewildered jibaros."

Haiti is a hard place. People who have spent time in Haiti, the Middle East and India say that Haiti is the worst. Life is cheap. People are loud and course, frequently dishonest, unwilling to be accountable and responsible for their actions. Critical thinking is not a cultural value; nothing works or is easy.

I know that I became loud and rude because that was the easiest way to communicate to accomplish anything. I frequently thought that the Haitian people were their own worst enemies and that I was working harder on their country then they were. I kiddingly said that my 'edit button' was disconnected because words came out of my mouth that appalled me!

I had to consciously work on NOT accepting complacency as the norm because it became very easy to think, "TIH-This Is Haiti: people suffer. They are hungry and thirsty and they live in a hellhole but until their government takes charge and causes a systemic change in the culture, nothing can be done." I did not like feeling this way.

Sometime in December, I walked into the ER and saw a sheet covering a dead body on one of the two gurneys. I casually asked, "Who's this? How long have they been here and when is the body being moved?" As I recall, I said all of this as I walked thru the ER out the back door.
Covered bodies on gurneys were the norm. Mothers brought babies to our gate that were already dead or were dying, asking us to help and there was nothing to be done. Children died all of the time from totally preventable infections that were not treated due to lack of access to medical care and came to us too late to save them.

A friend asked if I was depressed while I was there? No, not really. I was just resigned to it all, frequently throwing my hands up in despair My heart is not in Haiti like it is in Hawaii or Viet Nam or Nigeria or even Japan a place that I have yet to visit, but I seem to be called to be there, for whatever reason.

But just when I was convinced there was no hope for this place or these people, I would be touched by a patient or family that would simply say 'Merci.' I saw heart-warming strength and courage from people just to maintain their dignity.

Cator is a man in his 30's who has been a paraplegic in a wheelchair since 2004 due to gun shot wounds. When the earthquake occurred, he and his family escaped their home as it crumbled around them. He and his wife and their two school aged children moved into a tent but there was only one mattress so Cator slept on the concrete, giving the mattress to his wife and children. Unable to easily turn on the concrete, Cator developed 7 deep to the bone, pressure sores. Essentially at death's doorstep from malnutrition and infection, his wife somehow managed to get him to our hospital where he has lived and thrived for 16 months while his wounds have been surgically repaired and he has strengthened his body.
His wife visits every day and his children come after school. It was his children that Jo and I played Santa for on Christmas Day, surprising them with large red stockings packed with wrapped gifts. I gave his daughter a small pillow that someone had left me, thinking that it was a 'girlie' type of gift, something special. But she gave it to her dad so he would be more comfortable laying on his stomach after surgery. And we gave his son a harmonica which he promptly played, sitting next to a 20 yr old patient who is paralyzed from the neck down.
That was Christmas.
Was there any laughter or 'fun' times? Absolutely!
I worked as a staff nurse in the ICU Dec. 24-26 due to lack of staffing. When I agreed to work for 5 months at the hospital, it was assumed that I would return home before Christmas but I chose not to. It didn't feel right to go there to assist but leave when the staffing need would be the greatest. Besides, I wanted to see what Christmas was like in Haiti.
Christmas, specifically Christmas Eve, is the biggest holiday in Haiti. People go to church, visit each other or just walk the streets. We were told, "Be prepared, everybody is out all night, walking around, drinking and getting crazy." They were not wrong.
Christmas Eve, I sat in our Logistics Office with Toni and Jo, two of our physicians, Howard, one of our long term Paramedics, and Scott, a volunteer physical therapist, drinking coke and Barbancort Rum, which is 1st class Haitian hooch. We laughed and told stories as I watched Santa on NORAD, and we collectively laughed at the stone-cold sober ER doc who kept coming in, asking advice on how to handle all of the people who were at the hospital gate requesting to be seen in the ER.
I am told that the more I drank, the louder were my announcements about Santa's journey:
SANTA'S IN MOZAMBIQUE! SANTA'S IN SCOTLAND! Jo, who is from Oxford, England kept telling me that she did not believe in Santa Claus but she did change her tune once Santa landed in Oxford, which I loudly proclaimed to her!
Somewhere around 11pm, Howard the Paramedic asked if I wanted to take a walk outside the gate. Due to safety, none of us were ever allowed outside of the hospital gate unless we were in an authorized vehicle. BUT it was Christmas Eve, the streets were alive and I was with Howard.
Howard appeared at the hospital about a year ago, requesting to volunteer as a Paramedic. We don't pay Howard but he always has cash and I suspect that he has an outside job. I used to think that he was a mercenary but now I think that he is security for the mercenaries. He is vague about his life, refuses to have his picture taken but works hard and then disappears for a few days. So I felt very secure walking out with Howard. Besides, I didn't have to ask anyone's permission because I am the one who usually gives the permission!
We walked down all of the dirt 'streets' outside the hospital, wishing folks Joyeux Noel as they looked startled to see two blancs walking by their doors. People smiled and sang and danced up and down their streets. We followed some singing up some concrete stairs and found a group of people singing in Creole and swaying to the hymn “Crown Him with Many Thorns.” I know this more as an Easter song but it was pure and heartfelt.
What a wonderful experience!
We returned to the hospital laughing as the guards questioned how we managed to 'escape' out the gate. I went to bed in the call room on the roof as Santa was arriving in Argentina. The ER staff continued to see a steady stream of people with gun shot wounds, stabbings, asthma attacks and women delivering babies throughout the night.
And Santa must have come to Haiti because I woke up with new Christmas socks!
Another gift from my time there was to live in community with other longterm Medishare employees. Six of us shared four apartments about 15 minutes from the hospital. We shared food and drink and clean laundry, supporting and looking after each other. From our roof we could see the Caribbean in the distance and if we didn't look down onto the pancaked homes below us, the area looked like a tropical paradise island.
During my 5 months, I became the Godmother to Daniella and Gabriella, newborn twin daughters of Saentil, one of the ICU nurse's. And honorary Godmother to Christian, newborn son of Katia, another ICU nurse. I attended the wedding of Marie Sonia FanFan, another nurse at the hospital who assisted me in teaching and coordinating the 30-40 nursing students who rotated thru the hospital on a monthly basis. Another nurse, Medalie, and I share the same birthday of January 17th and we frequently laughed about sharing our day with Betty White and Michelle Obama. It pleased Medalie to know that she bore a passing resemblance to Mrs. Obama.
I was given a surprise going away party by the hospital staff a week before I left. I truly had no idea that anything was being planned much to the delight of the planners which gave credence to the fact that I frequently had no idea what was occurring, period.
The staff sang and danced and prayed and showered me with gifts. I was stunned and humbled. Pasteur, one of the Housekeeping men, showered and changed into dress clothes, prominently wearing a tie depicting a Twin Towers pre-Sept. 11th New York skyline as a way to say Thank You to me and America. The party ended with everyone singing 'How Great Thou Art" in French-Breathtaking!
I was honored to be invited into the lives of all of these people.
Do I think that my time was in vain? No, I do not but I am under no illusions that my presence and work will have a long lasting influence. I do know that lives were saved by our presence; and nursing care greatly improved thru the efforts of many people who patiently and consistently taught and mentored the nursing staff.
I started to use words and phrases like "dignity," "patient safety," "assessment," and was thrilled when the nurses actually gave a comprehensive shift report and signed their nursing notes! Priceless!
I do not pretend to know what will 'fix' this country so these above observations are from my little corner of hell or paradise, depending on the view. Much has been written about Haiti these past few days and I commend some of these writings to you:
1. HAITI: The Aftershocks of History by Laurent Dubois-reviewed by the NY Times January 1, 2012
2. Huff Post GLOBAL did an excellent article today, January 12th, on Haiti's history and current issues.
The author talked about the Toyota dealership in Port-au-Prince, that sells all of the white Land Cruisers to all of the NGO's. I rode in one of those vehicles twice a day.
3. The New York Times have had several recent on-line articles about Haiti which are truthful and comprehensive.
4. Project Medishare, the organization that I work with, has several YouTube videos about the hospital and earthquake relief. Last night I watched the 30 minute video which made me cry out of sadness for everything but pride of being involved in such an effort.
Lastly, I could not have done this and would not have done it, without Veronica's support and agreement for me taking of for 5 months to do whatever. 5 months is a long time.
Thank You to several people who returned to Haiti because I was there, bringing me money, protein bars and a touchstone of sanity and strength: Sharyne, Jane, Lorna, Emily, Erica, Myra, Jamie and her dad and Kirk in spirit.
And Thank You to all of you who prayed for my safety, sanity and health. You accomplished all three! Will I return to Haiti? Oh probably.

Thank you for traveling with me,

Kathleen

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Haiti #6 - Tiger and Fiona

Dear Friends,

November 15, 2011

I am sitting in a motel in Miami, preparing to return to Haiti in the morning. I flew here Sunday afternoon to attend a meeting about the future of Project Medishare’s involvement at Hospital Bernard Mevs in Port-au-Prince. I was scheduled to return to PAP this morning but slept thru my 9am flight (oops!) so I have spent the day in my jammies, watching mindless HGTV and Sesame Street. Today, Big Bird introduced the letter H for Habitat. I could have tried to book a later flight today but sometimes my fatigue scares me so I chose to hang out with Big Bird instead in my habitat at the La Quinta Inn East.

So many of you e-mail me, asking me how I am doing and how is my life and I truly do not know what to say. My hours blur into days which blur into weeks and I totally lose track of time. I had no idea that next week was Thanksgiving. October 31st, I went to Mega Mart, PAP’s local WalMart of sorts and their Christmas decorations displays were constructed. I was stunned. And the decorations were cheap and imported, none representing Haitian life. And the overhead speaker was playing ‘It Is the Most Wonderful time of the Year.” I wonder if the people even listen to the words?

Halloween and Thanksgiving are not celebrated here and I see no indications of Christmas. I’m told that before the earthquake, people decorated their homes and surrounding trees and foliage, with lights. They don’t have Christmas trees and don’t really understand decorating with ornaments but they do exchange some presents with family and friends.

But since the earthquake, all that has changed. “People are still so sad. So many people were killed, so many gone that no one wants to celebrate” according to Philip, our lead driver. No one is even speaking of Christmas and no one has requested the day off.

Wednesday, the night before Thanksgiving!

Another 10 days gone and I cannot account for them. Everything blurs now. Many of the employees have malaria and typhoid but luckily, no cholera. Two patients have died of rabies because there is no rabies vaccine in the country. Two others have died of tetanus. People who had an infected tooth now have massive facial cellulitis because they delayed treatment or used home remedies. Lots of gun shots and stabbings, some make it, some don’t. We have daily deaths due to untreated hypertension resulting in massive strokes; most of these people are between 35-55. There are daily admissions of people being hit by cars, falling out of tap-taps or young men falling out of trees trying to pick fruit. Most don’t make it. Cause of Death: born in Haiti. What a depressing paragraph.

Tomorrow we will have a turkey dinner on real plates and not out of Styrofoam containers. The catering company who provides the volunteer meals, bought some turkeys to make us dinner. I’m wondering how it will be prepared and in what form it will be presented: chunks, slices, mashed? And if the omnipresent creole sauce, beans and rice will be the sides?
And Tiger and Fiona? Veronica came to visit for 12 days and we spent a night at the Olafson Hotel, a grande dame of a hotel. Through the years it has been a war hospital, military headquarters, dictator du jour headquarters, abandoned and now a funky little hotel that plays some roaring Caribbean music on Thursday nights.

Almost all dogs in Haiti are medium sized, light brown and not vaccinated. Not unlike the dogs in Africa, India, SE Asia. Perhaps it is 1 father and thousands of mothers, who knows? I do know that most dogs here are assumed to be rabid and looked upon as animals, not family members to be fawned over.

Except Tiger and Fiona. They are LARGE, dark brown bull dogs who are owned by the Owner/Manager of the Olafson Hotel. They obviously own the place because they lumber along, sleeping everywhere! Fiona has obviously had many litters of puppies because her chest is almost dragging on the floor. They are old and start slow, tapering off. They are clean, vaccinated and wanting to be petted, planting their bodies under every hand that reaches out.
They also have a pal, a small, fluffy thing that I thought was a mangy cat but is a small, fluffy dog. Just appeared one day, no name and thinks that Fiona is her mom. Fiona moves 3 steps to take another nap and small, fluffy dog Velcro’s herself to Fiona, bouncing along. Their antics are the “floor show” during dinner on the veranda. Why is this my title? I couldn’t think of anything else; but mainly because these dogs and Veronica’s visit brought me a few moments of joy and silliness.

Thank You to all of you for your love, support and presence in my life. Have some mashed potatoes and gravy for me. Any maybe a few black olives.

Kathleen

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Haiti #5 - Hangin' With The Dragons

Dear Friends,

The original title of this diatribe was "Some days I am the bat, some days I am the ball." Which is still true. But in the last few weeks, as I have left the Logistics office to round on all of the nursing units, I have found myself saying, "I am going out to slay the dragons."
I was trying to slay one dragon an hour but that was a bit lofty. I now try to slay one dragon a day or at the very least, wrap them on the snout. Sometimes their tails hit me and some days we just coexist. Some seem to be smaller, some are cuter and some just sneer. And I am not sure who is winning.
This has been a hard few weeks. The grant money from the International Red Cross that funds Project Medishare, will be finished by Dec. 31st, but apparently the money will really be gone by Dec. 1st. Consequently, we layed off 20% of the staff on Sept. 30th. Doctors, nurses, translators, housekeeping. At one point I was so overwhelmed that I'd wished that I had been fired because I would have gladly left. Part of me still wants to.
Gaby, the Administrator and myself, sat and chose most of the people to be layed off, understanding that their income of $300/month was the only barrier to being homeless. Gaby was laid off one week later..
We met with all of the departments and told them about the layoffs and then the stories started. "Please, Madame, my husband and baby were killed in the earthquake, I will have no way to feed my children if I am let go." 'Please Madame, Please..."
We did not lay off the woman who told us this story.
Then one of the Haitian nurses was kidnapped for a day, luckily physically unharmed. And then the Lab spilled sulfuric acid at 11am one day but didn't say anything until 4pm even though they were coughing with watery eyes. The Lab was closed but no one thought to pull the wood off of the windows or put in a fan to ventilate the area.
During this time, Maxie, a young woman who I had taken care of in the Field Hospital was readmitted for Sickle Cell Crises. The family recognized me, greeting me with hugs, "we lost track of you." Because the Lab was closed, we had no idea how anemic she was. When we were finally able to get get some lab results, we sent the boyfriend to the Red Cross at the General Hospital, to get her a unit of blood. As the boyfriend was carrying in a unit of blood a couple of hours later, Maxie went into cardiac arrest and died. She was 22 yrs old and had just been accepted into Law School in New York. This was a totally preventable and needless death and I feel sick even thinking about it.
I thought that school started a month ago but I guess it started for everyone this past Monday. Uniforms needed to be made, black shoes and backpacks bought. Several of the hospital employees cannot afford all of this so a few of us sent money to the schools to pay the bills.
In that same vein, our hospital seems to be one of the few teaching hospitals left for nursing students so I now have 40 students divided into 6 hour shifts, doing their clinical rotations. And I have had to turn students away.
Two weeks ago, I noticed a little girl standing outside the inpatient HIV unit at the hospital. This is not a unit that we staff but it is right in the middle of the hospital so very visible. I smiled, she smiled and we became pals. Her mother was the only patient in the 5 bed unit so Milianne and her grandmother just moved into the unit with the mom.
I initially did not see the mom, only Milianne and her grandmother sleeping on the concrete floor of the unit. Milianne started to run to me and say "mange", she was hungry. So I adopted the 3 of them for a few weeks, giving them blankets, pillows, egg sandwiches from the street vendor, and clothes to Milianne who was half naked.
One day, Milianne pulled me into the room and their was her mom laying on the bed, only whispering "merci" to me. I felt like I was looking at the face of God and had to look away because it was so powerful.
Incredibly, the mother improved and the 3 of them left the hospital last week. And Milianne had new uniform skirts, black shoes and a backpack. Her smile was beautiful.
I am very tired so this is very brief. This is a very hard place.

Kathleen

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Haiti #4 - RIP

An elderly woman was hit by a car today. Brought into us, with major trauma and died 20 minutes later. No ID, no name, no one with her. The staff put her into a body bag and sent her to the morgue where she will be sent to General Hospital and cremated. Will anyone notice that she didn't come home?
Alexon died today. He was a 16 yr old boy who was stabbed with a knife while riding on the back of a motorcycle. He developed meningitis, improved on antibiotics but rapidly deteriorated over 24 hrs and died. His mom never left his bedside. The doctors think that there was poison on the knife.
The hospital is running out of money. All of the once daily meals for the staff have been stopped and as of yesterday, all of the patient meals have been stopped. Unfortunately, there are 7 patients in our long-term Spinal Cord Unit who have no families to bring them food, including Katiana, the 11 yr old who is a paraplegic from a wall falling on her. Several of us will start to contribute our food stipend to feed the patients.
A woman asked me for some 'glo' today, water, as I walked by her. She is the mother of one of the ICU patients, a young man who was involved in a MVA/Motor Vehicle Accident and is now paralyzed from the shoulders down. She wears the same white t-shirt every day that says, "To the best teacher, Mrs Barry, Christmas 1995, a denim skirt and a navy blue Easter Sunday type broad-brimmed hat. I have been giving her some food and water these past days but understand that in the greater scheme of things, I really shouldn't. Others see me do it and ask for some also. A scuffle can easily occur in seconds. But she was thirsty so I turned around a gave her one US dollar which will get her 4 small bags of water. Everyone is hot and thirsty here.
Rest In Peace Alexon and Little Old Lady.

Kathleen

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Haiti #3 - Common Sense Is Not Necessarily Common

Dear Friends,

Perhaps you are wondering where the above title comes from? There is absolutely NO WAY to fully explain daily life here so Gaby, the Administrator, has created this mantra: "Common Sense is not necessarily common, Logic is thrown out the window and we strive to always be 10 minutes ahead."
Whenever I want to start a sentence with "It would make sense if..." I have to stop because those words make no sense here. I have to resist throwing my hands in the air, thinking that the Haitian people are their own worst enemies. Absolutely nothing is easy here and I am sometimes overwhelmed with the difficulties of daily life. and yet a whole nation manages to survive, barely, and so must I.
For Example:
#1: Marie-Claude, one of the long term Haitian nurses, let a very sick patient into the clinic area at 7am one morning against the instructions of the gate guards. There was no doctor in the hospital so the Triage area was closed for 1 hour until a doctor arrived and the guards were instructed not to let anyone in.
But Marie-Claude didn't want the woman to lay on the street at the clinic gate. I totally understand this and applaud her for this. But after she brought the woman in and laid her down on the concrete, Marie-Claude LEFT the hospital for 1 hr "to do something" asking the guards to watch the woman. Benoit, who I affectionately call the 'grim reaper' because he is responsible for taking the bodies to the morgue, found this poor, moaning woman and immediately ran to the first person he could find, Gaby, the administrator, who got me and we comforted the woman, etc.
The next day, Gaby and I sat down with Marie-Claude to discuss this situation and to give MC a 'letter de blame,' a very serious action that can lead to termination and revocation of an employees certification, etc. MC was obviously very upset, repeatedly explaining why she did what she did. I repeated that she had abandoned the patient and would have been responsible if the woman had died. MC: "but she didn't die." Me: "but she could have and you left her alone and left the hospital, on work time." MC: "but she didn't so it was OK." There was no way that we could explain this to her.
#2: The EKG machine was put outside because the LOW BATT light was on, just meaning that it had to be plugged in. A nurse thought that it was broken so she put it outside and out of the way. Then it rained. HARD. And then it was broken.
#3: The C-arm, an x-ray machine, is broken and needs a $21,000 part to repair it. I guess it was in the way in the OR area, so someone pushed it into the parking lot to get it out of the way. Where it was almost broadsided by the truck that empties the port-a-potties. I rescued it and had it pushed into the corner of the x-ray dept.
#4: August 15th was a country-wide holiday here. No one could tell me which holiday but they all knew that it was a holiday and didn't really want to work. After some thought, I realized that August 15th is the Feast of the Annunciation, a Roman Catholic feast day. No one goes to church to honor it, but they all want it off.
Hospitals are 24/7 institutions which has been a difficult concept to teach here but the staff is improving with their attendance on Sundays and the night shift. Two weeks ago, on August 15th, two of the just arrived volunteer doctors asked me if they could go to the beach because "nothing was happening at the hospital."
I was taken aback by this request because they had only been here for 48 hrs. I wanted to say, "Hello, you are here to be of service for 1 week and just because the operating room nurse are not sterilizing your instruments as quickly as you would like, is no reason to declare this place a disaster and go to the beach."
In stead, I politely said 'No,' and that they were needed here, especially because one of them was an Orthopedic surgeon and people are always falling out of trees/trucks/motorcycles and breaking their bodies. And we are currently the only real hospital open because the General Hospital is on strike, again! Also, there was no driver, gas or car available for the 3 hr round trip. OK they said.
One hour later, I could not find them. I would later discover that they had gone to two of the workers, an X-Ray tech and a Wound tech, offered them food and gas money and had these two employees drive them to the beach. The explanation by the employees: our work was done and IT WAS A HOLIDAY so we went to the beach. Sadly, this made total sense to me. Other than leaving work for 4 hours, without permission, and thinking that they were getting paid for it, I understood. I also assume that these doctors gave each of these men some money for their time. These men make $300/month, so of course they are going to take $50-$100 for a ride to the beach. Besides, their work was done and IT WAS A HOLIDAY! These two men truly did not think that they had done anything wrong.
As a follow-up: One of the doctor's was sent home because leaving without permission is grounds for termination from here and the two employees were suspended without pay for 1 week, a great hardship for them. The second physician the Orthopedic doc, profusely apologized, unlike the first physician and we desperately needed him to do some 8-10 surgery cases/day so he stayed.
And it goes on and on and on.
SEASONS: The kids have returned to school so there is a steady parade of different colored uniforms walking by our gate. And the obligatory matching hair ribbons that are so cute. I am told that only about 50% of the children ever go to school and 50% of those in school never complete it due to finances.
We have managed to remain relatively unscathed by 2 hurricanes but we still have a few more months of the Hurricane Season and we are still having 2-3x/week torrential rains. And nightly lightening shows with some thunder. It remains hot and humid and sometimes I am really tired of being hot and sweaty.
There is still no Prime Minister because the Parliament does not agree with any of President Martelys choices so the government is at a standstill.
There seems to be an increase in armed robberies, stabbings and gun shot wounds, based on our ER business. And two police officers were shot and killed the other night and brought here so it was a bit rowdy at our front gate.
And there have been 12 kidnappings and 1 murder of some local Haitian folks. Consequently, all of our tours for the volunteer staffs have been canceled and we are only allowed out to go to the UN in an UN car. Is there a Kidnapping season?
The other evening, a 7 yr old little girl was brought to the hospital by two men. The story was that 'TaTa' had walked to the store on her own and been hit by a car. Luckily there was only a minor cut on her forehead. Two men saw the accident, scooped her up(?kidnapped) and brought her to us. Not out of any great sense of kindness but because they knew who the driver was and wanted us, the hospital, to pay them for the information. As we are saying No, that we will not be bribed, the driver and his buddies show up at the gate and a melee ensues. One group of men wanted to re-kidnap the girl and take her to the police station to get money from them in exchange for the information. We laughed saying that we assumed that the police had much more discretionary income than us.
While the boys were rowdy at the gate, we whisked the little girl into the Logistics office where her laceration was sutured and she could be fed. She was silent and obviously terrified. Our Social Worker attempted to get some info from the little girl but it was difficult. She only knew her name and her siblings names, not her address, anyone's cell phone number or even her mothers real name.
Two hours later, a woman shows up claiming to be the mom but later admits to being the aunt, TaTa identifies her and one of our drivers sneaks them out the back gate to go to the police station to file a report. Our main concern? The aunt will beat TaTa for creating such problems for the family.
Children are constantly dying here. A four old little boy died from complications of asthma last week. His grandmother was with him when he died and went "nuts," throwing herself all over the Peds unit, hallucinating, yelling at God. She eventually had to be restrained in a chair for her safety. Two nurses drove her home to the tents where they found the little boys mom who had delivered a baby a few days before. they told the mom about the death and then quickly returned to the car before a mob collected. The mothers wailing could be heard as they drove away.
The family could not pay for a funeral so the body was taken to the General Hospital where it was cremated. I still picture two of our Housekeeping men carrying this olive green stretcher with this little body covered in a light blue blanket. Does it still bother these men to carry a body or have they done it so many times, it is just a normal part of life? I don't know.
I held the door open the other night for one of our Transporters who was carrying two rolled up blankets in his arms. They were dead babies.
And today, a woman was driven into the hospital with a dead baby half-born and hanging out of her.
This past week, a Haitian American Pediatric surgeon from LA flew here to operate for 3 days. There were three Pediatric surgeons in Haiti but they were killed in the earthquake so Dr. Ford comes here every quarter to operate on the most desperate cases.
On a lighter note, it is football season and I have decided that I will go to the UN bar every Sunday to watch some football and have a beer.
Talk with you soon.

Kathleen

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Haiti #2 - A Few Weeks Later

Dear Friends,

It is Sunday, August 21st and I am starting this blog as I am finishing a 30 hour work marathon at good 'ol hospital bernie mevs. I am awake but that is subject to change at any moment.
One of my greatest revelations in this job is that many of the volunteers that sign up to come down here for a week or so, particularly the nurse's, decide 48-72 hrs beforehand, that they cannot do it. No reason given, they just cancel or just never get on the plane and never call. I had no idea people could or would do this! I understand the fear and the fleeting thought of not getting on the plane but NOT DOING IT? I had no idea and it's rude AND it screws up my schedule!
This week, 4 nurse's did the above; 1 additional nurse flat out told me that she could not and would not do night shift. And that if I made her do it she would "go nuts" and she would return to the airport immediately. Based on how nutso she was in bending down from her 5'10" frame into my not so big face, I switched her to day shift.
And then one of the ICU nurse's got sick sooooo, I worked a 12 hr night shift that turned into a 15 hr shift because 1 of the patients tried to die. For you non-medical folks, people frequently "try to die" during change of shift. Maybe they think that we are not paying attention to them and it is their only opportunity to get some peace and quiet. I don't know but it happens all of the time. Change of Shift is always "the bewitching hour."
And then, because we are starting some major construction this week, there was a scheduled 1-2 hr power outage in the ICU/ER/OR for some electrical something. And then one of the visiting surgeons had a "fit' about something, summoning me to the courtyard about some impending natural disaster. Please keep in mind that this was ALL BETWEEN 6-7AM ON A SUNDAY MORNING!!!!!! I told the surgeon that I was busy with a woman who was DYING and could not speak to him right now. "Hurrumph" he said and stormed out. Whatever.
A natural disaste in Haiti? Please be more specific. As it turned out, one of the housekeepers in the OR/Recovery room, had mopped the floor with Formaldehyde. Huh?
So here I am, 30 hrs later: dirty, sweaty and tired...
...I have had a 3 hr nap now and am ready to go. Unfortunately, the woman who was trying to die, did die several hours later. It was peaceful.
I have been keeping notes the past 2 weeks for this blog and after looking at the notes, I realized why I never was able to write a blog about my Jan-Feb 8 week visit here: there is no rhyme or reason to my words. No outline or witty repartee; just events that feel schizophrenic and chaotic which is what life is like here.
In the interest of my sanity and based on some of the questions that you have asked, I am going to attempt to outline a few subjects about my life here:
1. Typical day: it begins with the 5:20am barking dog and the roosters in the trees. (I am so not a morning person.) We may have electricity based on the City Power gods and gas for the generator. We have water that comes from cisterns up to large holding tanks on the roof. Because no one has lived in my apartment for months, my water smells like rotten eggs. I guess I have to take longer showers to empty the tank for fresh water and after 3 weeks, it does smell a BIT better. The water is not safe to drink so I have to remember to keep my mouth shut while showering. And to wear flip-flops in the shower because the bathtub has permanent 'nastiness' on it. A driver picks us up at 7:30 or so and I am at the hospital for the next 10+ hours. Two nights a week I stay at the hospital in a small call room on the roof. There is no barking dog so I actually sleep better there than at the apartment.
2. What do I do all day? Sometimes the nursing units have run out of water because 'Jimmy, the water guy' is not there yet and I have to find him. Or the volunteer nurse's are frustrated with the night Haitian staff because they intermittently sleep during the night and need to talk. Or the volunteer nurse's are upset with Haiti. That's a much longer conversation. Or there is no toilet paper or hand sanitizer and Chantelle, the cleaning lady, has locked the main door to administration so she can mop the floor. Or there is no toner in the xerox machine and we have no way to xerox anything, as in, no consents for surgery. There is no place to buy toner here and I guess that we can't fly down toner because of terrorism or something. And the concept of writing MASTER in yellow hi-liter, does not exist here. So we hand wrote a consent and the next day, the administrator sent someone out to make copies, from what I have no idea. And we now have toner but I don't know where it came from.
Sometimes I need to reserve some medical beds for impending surgeries and there are no beds. Or people resign. Or people need to be fired. Or Benoit, the 'grim reaper' who manages the morgue, which is just a series of gurneys in the back, in the sun, is on vacation and no one has picked up the bodies. Or, or or...suddenly it is 6 hrs later. And then it is 10 hrs later. I guess I should be able to account for my time better.
Pauline, the previous Haitian CNO, did resign last week. Unfortunately, she gave me minimal information on her files, paperwork, etc so I have been attempting to decipher all of this while conducting job interviews for nursing positions. Did I mention that everything is in French? Thank God that Sister Somebody taught me some high school French because I can read a bit but I usually need to have a translator with me.
3. What do I do for fun? In Haiti? There are no stores here as we know them, except food stores. All clothes are bought on the street. If there are movie theaters, I am not aware of them. Two weeks ago, 5 of us from the house, went food shopping. We receive 1 meal a day at the hospital so I have had little need to buy 'real' food anywhere. If I do buy food, it is at a local food store which is cheapish and sufficient. I forget the name. It serves the purpose.
BUT it was Sunday so we had one of the drivers take us to the neighborhood of Petion-ville, the high-rent district up the hill, to the GIANT foodstore. It was like another world.
Many local Haitian folks were there but they must be employed to pay those prices. Lots of embassy and NGO folks. Great assortment of foods but very expensive: $7 for a mango. $10 for OREO bits, etc. They even had bottled Starbucks Frappacino's but if it is expensive in the States, can you imagine the price there? $11!!!!
I bought a pink rubber bathmat, made in China, with a label describing it as "Beautiful Niceness."
The most fun item that I bought was......liquid soap! Be still my heart! It is clear and has the scent of white tea and ginger or white ginger and tea, not really sure. This is really quite exciting because we wash our hands with only hand sanitizer so my treat, is to wash my hands once a day with REAL soap and water! So exciting!
The other fun thing that I did, was go to a hamburger joint in Petion-ville, called HANG and have a real hamburger. I even wore a dress! Great food but it gave me diarrhea for 2 days. Oh well.
And sometimes, I have one Prestige beer in the evening. In fact, I was out of cold beer the other day which was close to being an emergency according to Big Dave and Adrien, the guys who live in the apartments.
If I were to buy a beer from the street, with US dollars, even though I would have to send one of the men out to buy it, they would still have to pay the 'blanc price, the 'white price' because it is US currency. Using Gdes. the Haitian currency, a beer would cost 25 Gdes, about 75 cents. If a US dollar is used and I buy it, 1 beer is $1.25. It is $2 at the UN bar and $6 in a hotel. So, of course, I give money to the guys and they buy the beer.
The hospital is a dry campus which means that one just quietly asks the guards to walk out a buy the beer. I gave a $10 bill to Adrien, not really knowing about high finances, and he returned with a 12 pack. His seller is named Spider.
Haiti is a hell-hole and conservation and recycling are unknown concepts here. BUT the one item that they do collect and conserve is beer bottles. I knew this but I was unprepared for Spider to come into the hospital, find me and ask for his beer bottles back, 3 days after I had received them. Not satisfied with my response that I had only drank 2 beers since I had received them, he went to Adrien, in the Logistics office (how do these guys know where the Logistics office is?) loudly expressing his dissatisfaction with my lack of empties. His eyes got really big when I said that I had only drank 2 of them in 3 days. Mon dieu!
I now have 8 empties because Adrien and Big Dave have each had a beer. I hope Spider is appeased.
I am here to be in the hospital so time off or days off are not really thought of, we're just here.
3. Street Scenes: In my last blog, I described the 19 small streets that we drive up and down, to get to the hospital. I am also starting to recognize some of the regular street folks.
There is the woman who I hear but do not see, every morning, loudly yelling out what she is selling. I am thinking that it is bread which she would be carrying on her head. She repeats her refrain every 20ft or so. She 'sounds' in her 40's-50's, slender bordering on malnourished, poor, wearing a dress and flip-flops.
There is the Happy Birthday truck and the Titanic truck. These are water trucks that drive to peoples homes and fill up there cisterns with water. One truck plays Happy Birthday and the other truck plays the theme song from the Titanic, as they drive down the streets.
There are police cars everywhere and UN trucks with men with big guns, at many intersections. The police randomly stop cars, asking for registration or some other paperwork. I think. Whenever I ask our driver about this, they suddenly do not understand English. Everyone is assumed to be dishonest and corrupt here and it is assumed that everyone steals, so I am wondering if the police are collecting money from the cars. No money, no driving. We are never stopped or questioned because we have a sign in the window, saying we are on administrative business. Plus, having a blanc in the car, in the light of day, usually means the driver will not be shaken down. After dark is another story.
Most of the clothes that are worn here, are originally from the US or neighboring countries. Best t-shirt:: man wearing a bright yellow shirt WOMEN FOR McCAIN!
4. Weather: it is god-awful hot and humid and smells like garbage. And as I write this, Hurricane Irene is about 24-36 hours away from us. We have had some great quick moving Caribbean evening storms that produce steamy rain and humidity. Unfortunately, because there is no sewer or drainage system here, a rain like that causes flooding and twice the hospital has been flooded, especially in the Pediatric unit. Most of the hospital is built up small inclines but many areas are not so everything floods. Sandbags do not exist. We just watch the rising torrents of water and clean up the mud and debris afterwords.
5. Contributing to the smell of garbage is the huge piles of garbage at every other corner. This is not a few bags strewn about, this is 20ft of garbage in both directions from the corner, about 3-4 ft deep with mongrel dogs rummaging thru the muck. The piles are frequently on fire. The piles get bigger and bigger and then one day, they are gone! Then they start all over agin.
6. Speaking of fires, I have never seen a fire truck here. There are police everywhere but no fire stations or visible equipment.

And Then There Is The Rest:
In my last blog, I spoke of a very sick 14 yr old girl whose father promised to kill everyone if she died. She did die peacefully with an older brother at her side and her father was OK when the brother called him. The Pediatrician and myself each contributed 500Gdes, about $12.50, to transport the body home in the north.
Last week, I assisted with a transport of 2 children and their mother's, to St. Damien's hospital for some head CT's. One child was a 14 yr old girl who had fallen and hit her head. She laid draped over her mother and aunt's laps. The other child was a 3 month old little boy with a slightly large head and bilateral clubbed feet.
Gideon was the driver and had a tape of church music playing during the ride. As we drove/bounced the wrong way down streets to avoid huge potholes, UN trucks and the general chaos of the streets, the women began to quietly sing with the music. I turned and smiled at them and they sang louder. I cannot describe to you the spontaneous melodies of their voices. All I could do was close my eyes and smile and pray. It was a holy moment.
A week later, an adult patient was desperately in need of O- blood which rarely is available here. For 1 week the Haitian Red Cross looked for blood to no avail. For you medical folks, the patients Hgb was 3.6. For you non-medical folks, the results should minimally be 10 and 12 would be better.
As it turns out, one of the volunteer nurse' had O- blood and she had taken a special liking to the baby with the clubbed feet. The surgeon wanted his patient to have blood before he operated and the nurse wanted the surgeon to fix the clubbed feet SO a deal was struck: 1 pint of blood for 2 fixed feet. And it was done and the mother just sat there and smiled.
Last week, we admitted Tatiana, an 11yr old little girl who had a wall fall on her and who is now a paraplegic. Her parents are dead and she was "dropped off by soneone." This girl is 11 but looks like to be 9 or 10. In Haiti, the kids look younger than their age and the adults look much older. She had been raped and has gonorrhea. Fortunately, she is not pregnant or HIV infected.
Ferla, our social worker, had decided to go to the girls village to see if anyone could care for the girl, when a man showed up who said that he was the girls step-father. Based on how he attrempted to caress her and how she cringed, we are suspecting that he has been raping her.After Ferla spoke with him, he left and has not returned.
All of the ICU nurse's have adopted Tatiana. She has a chest brace on until her spine can be stabilized so a few nurse's put her into a wheelchair, took her outside, found a hose and gave her a bath and washed her hair. Gaby, the administrator, bought her some barrettes and braided her hair. I found a Barbie doll with some clothes and some other 'girlie things' and in the last few days, she has actually started to smile.
After her spine is stabilized, Ferla will attempt to find a rehab place for her. But after that, who knows?
I have much more to tell you but it is now the 23rd, my 23rd day of working, and I am finally tired. Hurricane Irene has missed us and we are happy.
Talk with you soon.

Kathleen

Saturday, August 6, 2011

Haiti Week 1

Dear Friends,
As many of you know, I have agreed to a 5 month 'assignment' as the Director of Nursing at a small hospital in Port au Prince, Haiti. This is the same hospital and organization, Project Medishare, where I have been volunteering since April 2010.
I was at this hospital for 2 months in Jan-Feb of this year and again for 1 week in May. Each time I was asked to consider returning to do nursing education, which I agreed to do. And then in June, I was offered the Chief Nursing Officer (CNO) position; perhaps I flapped my jaws one too many times about things around here and now I am here. Yikes!
I flew to Miami on Friday, July 29th and had dinner with Gillian, the Project Medishare rep who flies between Miami and PAP to try and get this 'little engine that could' hospital up and running. Dr. Barth Green, the director of Medishare has the goal of making this the only trauma/critical care hospital in all of Haiti and after a year this dream may actually happen. It can't and won't be 1st World, due to local education and lack of pretty much everything here, but it may be 2nd World or we will all die trying.
Gillian talks faster than I can think and is quite an imposing presence even though she is only a few inches taller than me. Therefore, when she said: "Don't stress about this, take a month to figure it all out, you'll be fine" I thought, "uh-huh." "And, oh by the way, here are the things I would like you to focus on:
1. Monday, we are starting to bill for all triage visits. Check on this and tell me what's happening and how we can make it better." I didn't dare tell her that numbers are not really my best subject.
2. We just put correct airflow into the Operating Rooms (it wasn't there before?) and I am not sure if the rooms are being cleaned properly after each case. Should the walls be washed down? Find out and implement it, will you?'
3. The Bitar Brother's are going to start performing quite a few private patient surgeries to bring in revenue. We will need more staff, investigate it will you? And we are going to be knocking down a wall to move the patients into their private rooms which are currently volunteer sleep rooms. Follow-up please."
When I told her that two of my struggles during my Jan-Feb 2 months stay, were to not shut down to the omnipresent misery around me and to not be so distrustful of everyone in Haiti (if they are nice to me, do they want something from me?) she replied, "don't trust anyone."
Yes ma'am, I said. Ay carrumba!
Saturday morning, the 30th, I arrived at the American Airlines terminal, and stood in line for 45 minutes, as the only non-Haitian, while a group of 30+ volunteers teens and adults from the Miami Vineyard Christian Church, were checked in for my flight. And for 45 minutes, several of the in-line Haitians complained in Creole, about the volunteers taking their seats on the plane. I later found out that 7 of these Haitian people did not have tickets and were flying stand-by so I assume, very much wanted these volunteers to not check in.
When I was finally called to the counter, a Haitian older woman (easily 100) was moving VERY SLOWLY in front of me. I waited and was immediately yelled at by the man with no seat who was breathing down my neck. I looked at him and said that I didn't want to HIT HER!
Great, I'm loud and rude already.
My bags weighed 52 and 58 pounds respectively and so the AA lady told me to remove some things and weigh them on the scale. I took out a pair of sandals and all of the sanitary napkins that I was bringing for any patient that needed them. That was my 2 pounds but the woman looked so embarrassed that these bright yellow sanitary napkin packages were laying all over her luggage scale, that she let me put them back in! And she did not recharge me for weight because I had been charged in Phoenix. Woohoo!
Then there was the TSA lovefest: a body scan, then having all of my carry-on luggage checked because I had a large bottle of cough medicine that had to be checked "for fumes" and a candle that...I have no clue. Surly bunch. And in the process, I lost a sandal. Damn!
Our flight arrived in PAP at the same time as an Air France Miami flight and baggage claim, which is chaos at its best, was nuts, just plain nuts. So with 500+ passengers, 1000+ pieces of luggage, 2 fully functioning carousels, and skycaps of sorts saying, "I take care of you" to freshly bathed, wide-eyed volunteers standing with their mouths open like dead fish, it still took 45 minutes to even find the door out. And I knew where I was going! Then I was pounced on by the gray-shirted men (they used to wear plaid shirts, I was momentarily confused), "Madame I help you" but was rescued by Phillipe, the hospital driver who also had to fight off the gray-shirted men because he wasn't wearing a gray shirt but a green t-shirt.
Does it look any better here? It does. The Immigration/Baggage claim area is brighter; there are more advertisements on the walls and the a/c seemed to be working. Some tents are gone and the streets had less garbage and rubble in them but the streets remain gutted with holes and pancaked buildings are still everywhere. It is hot, dirty and gritty and everyone looks very tired.
The hospital is still here. My fear was that I would drive up to the hospital and think, "I can't stay here for 5 months, it's terrible here." But I didn't have that reaction, it was more one of overwhelming fatigue. I was met with open arms by everyone I knew and received 2 requests from nurses to change their schedules within the first hour. That was after I was asked to go into the ER and help with 2 gunshots that had just been brought in. Blood everywhere but the volunteer group this week consists of a group of EMT's so they were loving it.
Of course, they wanted to do x-rays on both of the patients at the same time which is laughable. Gotta wait, there's only one space in x-ray and one very slow moving tech. That's after you go down the ramp off of the ER and try not to lose the gurney with the momentum, (almost took out a little old lady in a wheelchair on that one!) push the gurney thru the parking lot, dodging the non-responsive man who is being carried up the ramp by his limbs and then up the ramp to x-ray, dodging the guys in their wheelchairs.
Too much fun!
There was also a 1 week old baby brought in by his mother saying, "something wrong." The baby had been born at home and based on its symptoms probably had tetanus. There is no test available here for this but the mom said whatever was used to cut the umbilical cord was "just around." The baby also tested positive for HIV so the mom was going to be tested. After two days in the Peds unit with gradual deterioration, the mom took the baby home to die.
I am living in an apartment building about 15 minutes from the hospital. There are 6 apartments each with 2 bedrooms with some basic furnishings including a shower curtain with fluorescent green, orange and red tulips. I have been told to not freak when my queen-sized bed falls apart during the night. Apparently a part is missing.
My bedroom has a/c which is obviously electricity dependent. When I arrived at my apartment Saturday evening after spending 6 hours at the hospital there was no city power and thus no water because the water pump needs power. I sat in the dark on the roof with the other Medishare employees and played with Ariel, the house dog who desperately needs a bath. I went to bed smelling like Haiti dirty dog sweat. That was after I found my sheets and blanket by using my headlamp.
With all of the windows open for ventilation, I woke up at 5am Sunday morning courtesy of the rooster who lives next door and then the barking dog. Still no power or water-this could be a long 5 months. The on-site generator that we have in the courtyard did have enough gas in it to give us 1 hour of power and water then it died. But I got a shower during that hour!
Another 4 hours at the hospital, just hanging out, talking to people. Our driver to take us home that evening was Michelet who said his wife was at the OB hospital about to deliver their second child. But she was getting tired and couldn't push anymore. He was frantic with worry so myself and the other 2 people he was driving home, told him just to drive to the hospital and we would call for another car to take us home. Rachel, our volunteer coordinator, suggested that she and I both go into the hospital so I could evaluate if this was becoming a problem labor and possibly transfer the wife to our hospital. "OK" I said thinking "I don't birth no babies."
La Chanterelle Hospital is the main OB hospital for PAP. I have no idea how many women can labor at one time or even how big the building is because it was dark and there were very few lights in the parking lot or the walkway into the hospital. The cars in the parking lot were blaring Haitian music from their radios; there were people in the shadows, mainly women, probably relatives, just sitting and talking.
Michelet managed to talk fast and get us past the guards and we walked into this building that looked like a prison. The walls were painted dark green half way up with white paint to the ceiling. But the top 2 feet of the walls were open with bars on them, I assume to let in some air but the screaming and the smell were pretty unnerving. The floors were clean though.
There were women everywhere! Laying on the floors, the benches, in chairs mainly behind metal doors that also had bars on them. Our presence, two "petite blancs" caused people to either look up with dazed eyes or come to the doors to look at us.
We found Michelet's wife laying on a bench, moaning and rocking. When she saw Michelet, she stood up but fell to her knees. She was too weak to walk but wasn't far enough into labor to merit a bed yet. Or an IV for hydration or medication to move the labor along. She was just like all of the other wailing women so we left and another driver took us home.
Michelet's wife delivered a healthy baby boy and mom and baby were home 20 hours later.
Monday, August 1st, was my first day of school so to speak. Unfortunately, Pauline, the woman whose job I am taking because she is being moved into a coordinator position, had not been officially told this, she thought I was "just coming to help her." Oops! Therefore until the Administrator tells Pauline about the changes, hopefully tomorrow, I am just wandering about being vague about what I am doing. This is so typical, communication is not a strong suit here and things can get confusing very quickly.
This week, there is a group of Pediatric surgeons who are here to asssit with scheduled elective procedures, primarily hernia repairs and circumcision's. and Monday is the day that one of the Drs' Bitar (identical twins and I can't tell them apart yet) see's patients in their office in the main admin building. So along with terrified, screaming little boys tugging at their moms, there are at least 50 people lined up sort of, at the door of this 1 story, door always open, main building. Several people have large grotesque growths visible on their faces or chests and the smell of gangrene is unmistakable. And they all just quietly sit until attended to.
The main focus of the day for everyone has been Tropical Storm Emily that is churning to the east of us. Projections have it either slamming us or at least nipping at us quite a bit so we are stock piling supplies. If this storm does hit us, the 7 of us who are living here, will move into the hospital and sleep on cots somewhere.
Again I say, just too much fun!
That evening, the 7 of us walked down the street to to a small cafe called 'Joyce's Corner.' The distance is literally one-half block and we passed 7 pancaked buildings and one abandoned, windows blown out, partially crushed car. 6 of the 7 houses have been abandoned and greenery is growing thru the rubble. Amazing.
Then we started with the 'power on, power off' game that lasted until we all returned to the hospital Tuesday morning. City power on, then off, generator on then dead. Roosters awake every hour, barking dog awake at 5am. Kathleen very tired, hot and sweaty.
The drive to and from work consists of 19 turns onto gravel roads with rocks and piles of garbage everywhere. Some garbage piles even have greenery growing out of them. Plus the potholes that could swallow a volkswagen. Men are pushing wheelbarrows with odd pieces of metal. They are dripping sweat and their ribs are visible below their skin. There are small groups of women with straw hats, sweeping dust and rubble off of the street. but most of the time, they are sitting in the shade, their feet and brooms sitting on top of their flip-flops.
Tuesday, we met with Pauline and discussed the new org chart. Never an easy conversation but hopefully it will be OK.
Wednesday morning, Pauline resigned. Hmmm...
It is now Friday morning of my first week of my Caribbean Semester Abroad. As you know, TS Emily did not hit us and as they say here, "thanks God."
Some of the patients I have seen this week: a 17 yr old girl in beginning heart failure probably from Rheumatic Heart Disease. She probably has TB outside of her lungs but we can't get her the right meds so will transfer her to an HIV clinic who will treat her. But she's not HIV+, hopefully they won't care. she is young, hopefully she will make it but she probably needs a heart transplant.
A 14 yr old girl who was in a car accident in the countryside. The parents did not want to bring her to the city for care but her sister's father (not hers) "kidnapped" her and brought her to us. The girl is obviously neurologically damaged and will not survive. The decision has been made to pull out her breathing tube and see how long she will survive breathing on her own.
BUT her father found out that she was here and has threatened to cut off everyone's head if she dies. I just escorted a judge to Peds so he can talk to the doctor's and determine legal custody.
A woman in her 30's brought in with dilated pupils, probably suffering from neuro-syphillis. she died a few hrs later in the ER.
An 11 yr old girl walked in yesterday with her mom with a tumor growing out of the right side of her head, It was the size of a softball. She spent the night in Peds because the neurologist was to see her today. She died this morning.
A 28 yr old man in heart failure from Rheumatic Heart Disease. He needs a transplant but will be put on some medications that will make his breathing more comfortable and give him some quality of life.
A woman,maybe in her 40's, who was brought to the hospital in the back of a police car from the city of Gonaive, north of here. She had broken her leg a week ago and was casted by some clinic. But the family did not know how to care for the cast and now it "smelled" so they brought her to us. We had no room to admit her and suggested that the family/police take her to MSF-France (Doctor's Without Border's) but I guess the family refused. When I returned here he next morning, she was still sitting in the back of the police pick-up. I have no idea where she slept/ate/used the toilet. Later I saw her in a wheelchair.
A lot of tragedy here.

Talk with you soon,
Kathleen

Friday, October 1, 2010

It's All About the Olives - Haiti September 2010

Dear Friends,

As some of you know, this trip to Haiti was spontaneously scheduled one very hot July day. I had just returned from 5 weeks of working as a camp nurse in northern Arizona, had taken a quick 5 day trip to Seattle, it was 110 degrees outside and I wondered, "OK, what's next?" I was restless and hot and trying not to be crabby. On a whim, I called Project Medishare in Miami, the organization that I had traveled with in May, to inquire about openings. There was a nurse opening for the week of August 28-September 4th and I said "yes." I was confirmed in 5 minutes and it felt right.

Project Medishare, through the U of Miami Medical School, had been working in Haiti for 17 years, mainly in the outer areas of Port a Prince (PAP). In PAP, they had been working at a very small hospital, Hospital Bernard Mevs, that is located on a muddy side street about 20 minutes from the airport. With the impending hurricane season, declining patient census and need for such a large facility in the tents, Medishare broke down the tents and moved a very scaled down operation into the Bernard Mevs facility. Most of the Haitian employees followed the move.

Hospital Bernard Mevs is owned and operated by 48 yr old identical twin brother's, Jerry and Marlon Bitar. They are Lebanese descent, born and raised in Haiti. They are both general surgeons who trained in France, returning to Haiti in 2000 to establish their practices. English is their second language but they are fairly fluent. They speak to each other in French, I suspect occasionally squabbling like all siblings do; they are quite funny.

Unlike 'the tents' which were American run within Haitian constraints, the Hospital is Haitian run and we are there to supply extra help and to assist in educating the staff. Previous to the earthquake, the hospital was just a small, general hospital. When Medishare joined the Bitar brother's, and moved in their machines and the capacity to give critical care services to babies, children and adults, the hospital became the only critical care hospital in all of Haiti. General Hospital, the main hospital in PAP that was able to give some degree of "complicated" care, was severely damaged in the earthquake. Walls are missing and beds can be seen from the street. The Bernard Mevs Hospital building only sustained minimal minor damage, so remained opened when most other hospitals were damaged or destroyed necessitating their closing. Never underestimate the power of rebar to keep a building standing!

The Bitar brother's performed greater than 900 surgeries after the earthquake, setting up the Recovery Room and general wards, in small tents in the hospital courtyard because everyone was too afraid to be inside the buildings. They have been interviewed on CNN by Dr. Sanjay Gupta. The brother's dream is that within the next 18 months, the Medishare volunteers will be able to teach the Haitian staff how to care for critically ill patients and for the Haitian staff to be able to totally assume this care and operate the hospital.

I spent the next 5 weeks e-mailing PJ, the head Pharmacist at the hospital, inquiring about needed hospital supplies, etc. Each volunteer is allowed 2 50lb suitcases and 2 carry-ons. I decided that all of my clothes and personal articles would fit into the carry-ons and I would use the large suitcases for supplies. PJ gave me a list of needed supplies: sheets because there are no sheets on the patient beds unless the family can bring some in; chocolate covered Pop Tarts; wire hangers, Parmesan Cheese and olives for martini's, preferably with garlic in the center! Olives for martini's? I thought that Haiti was really struggling? I assume that you are reading these words with the same quizzical look on your face as I did when I read them.

The hangers and Parmesan Cheese are used for barter and as a Thank You to one of the local families who helps PJ. They have spaghetti every morning for breakfast but Parmesan Cheese is not available in Haiti. I brought 6 small bottles with me. You get more 'bang for your buck' if you have small bottles vs large bottles. Greater barter potential. The Pop Tarts are for some of the long term staff and volunteers that are sick of rolls and peanut butter for breakfast. I can only find Organic Pop Tarts which seems like an oxymoron to me but what the heck! They are heavy by the way. Must be all that nutrition!

And the olives. All of the medicine that Medishare uses comes from donations in the States but there is no consistency in the donations. During August, PJ was out of Vancomycin, a potent IV antibiotic, which was needed to treat some brain abscesses. The doctors would attempt to treat the man with other medications but Vanco was the needed drug. Twice PJ had lent the medication to Sean Penn's organization, J/P HRO, but she had to "borrow" it back. And as a last resort, she had walked out onto the streets to barter for some Vanco. She had one small bottle of olives left and was able to barter for a few vials of Vanco. Could I bring more olives? My life became "all about the olives."

For those of you who haven't had the need to shop for or purchase, olives, with garlic, an education: Not every store sells them and not every store has them with garlic. And when I did find the olives, they were not cheap! Or light! (Thank you Laurel for suggesting Whole Foods, my 6th store!)

And, then there is the packing so as to prevent breakage. I couldn't put them in my carry-ons because they are greater than 3oz (thank you TSA) so they had to go in the center of my 50lb bags. Have you ever watched what happens to our luggage? Other than Southwest Airlines, which lovingly cradles our bags, according to their commercials, our bags are tossed about like ping-pong balls! Soooo, each little precious bottle of olives was wrapped with bubble wrap, taped, put into the center of my rubber boots, which were padded top and bottom with pillow cases and the pillow cases taped in place. The boots were positioned between sheets with padding so the boots did not bump into each other. I also had concerns that if any of the jars popped open, my luggage would be full of olive juice. And there are no laundry facilities at the hospital. As I said, it became "all about the olives."

I also packed about 60lb of sheets and pillowcases, bungee cords, duct tape, sanitary napkins, toothbrushes, pens, etc., anything that could be distributed to the patients and their families. The linen was graciously given to me by so many friends after I sent out an SOS e-mail before I left. The pillowcases will be used specifically to hold and cover the babies.

As much as I had been told by previous teams, that the hospital was very different than the tents and everyone really missed the tents, I was really looking forward to getting off of the airport grounds and into the city to view it for myself. I had not had the chance in May and wondered what it really looked like.

Friday August 27th

I only slept about 6 hours the night before because I was so excited about returning to Haiti. If I didn't breathe or look at them wrong, each of my large bags weighed 49lb's. I was hoping that they would look and feel "slim" at the airport and not cost anymore than the $25 dollar fee. They "squeaked by" but my 2 carry-on's were too big so they were checked also. But for free! I know that some people have feelings about people who carry on their carry-on's, fully knowing that their bags are too big to be carried and will be checked for free, but this was not my intention. I really thought that they would fit SOMEWHERE near my seat. Oh well.

I flew to Miami via Dallas on American Airlines. During the flight, I met a young woman, Marie from Jamaica, who had just completed an 8 week summer job, working as a receptionist at a hotel near Lake Powell in northern Arizona. This was her first time traveling out of Jamaica and she was anxious to return home to complete her studies as a teacher to "give back to my people." She was hungry so I bought her lunch and introduced her to coconut flavored M&M's. What a delightful young woman!

I stayed at the Miami International Hotel, located in the International Terminal. What a genius idea to locate a hotel for people schlepping in and out of Immigration after an international flight! Had a snack of conch (fish) soup and a cold beer and repaired to bed.

Saturday August 28th

Up at 3am after 4+ hours of sleep, to be at the Gate by 4am to check in and meet the team. There were about 30 of us, mostly doctors and nurses with a few Occupational and Physical Therapists. Three of the MD's and one of the nurses, were Haitian-American and were returning for the first time since the earthquake. One of the MD's had not been back in 40yrs! All 4 of them spent the week processing and emotionally dealing with what had happened to their home. Most of the time they just looked very sad.

Besides the 30 of us, the 757 American Airlines jet was filled with Haitians or Haitian-Americans, many of them returning from shopping trips based on their carry-on's of new bedding, microwaves, cookware, etc. These are obviously the people with money who have the freedom to come and go. I was told that anyone with money left after the earthquake and only the "poor" people were left in PAP.

I sat next to a man who had just completed a month's visit in Boston, to see his wife and newborn twins, Valentine and Valentina. After the earthquake, the wife was able to somehow get a visa and move to Boston to stay with a relative but the husband has only a 30 day visa and must return. All of his family survived the earthquake but lost all of their possessions, including their home. He presently lives in a tent. I will hear so many similar stories this next week.

90 minute flight to PAP, arriving at 8:30am. From the air, the island looks green and lush and the Caribbean Sea a deep blue. But then as we made our final approach to land, we flew over the harbor and all I could see were the tents: from the waters edge, into the city, up the hills. Miles and miles of tents. Approximately 1-1.5 million people are living in the tents, 1/3rd of PAP's population. More about the tents later.

I could also see the airport grounds where the original Medishare/Field Hospital/MASH Unit hospital tents had been, and where I had worked and lived in May, and were now just large patches of grass and rubble. About 20,000 people were treated there, many lives saved and so many lives lost there, so many tears and so much laughter just to maintain sanity and now, Poof! gone. Hopefully, it will never be needed again. I guess all is impermanence.

Walked down the plane stairs to the waiting trams and taken to Immigration and Baggage Claim. My God it is hot and humid! The Immigration people and all of the Haitian people for that matter, are expressionless, just stamping the passports and motioning us on. The area looks a 'bit' better than in May. There are baggage handlers who will retrieve our luggage off of the one moving carousel if we pay them $2 US. But first we must get a cart which involves a few more US dollars to the woman who gives us the slip to walk about 2 ft to give to the guy who gives us the cart. Are these people just tired, hot or 'just over us?' They are barely civil to us let alone cordial. After 7 months, we come and go and they stay; I guess I'd be 'over us' too. They need us but hate that they need us.

Several of the volunteer's have never been out of the US so this whole experience is pretty disconcerting to them. Fortunately, there are Medishare folks about to shepherd us thru the chaos of walking out the door into the blinding sun and constant yelling by the men on the street. Being warned about asking any of the street men for help, we all push/pull/carry our 2 50lb bags and 2 carry-on's to a waiting truck where they are unceremoniously THROWN into and on top of each other. MY OLIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!

Walk to a parking lot and find the vans to transport us. Picture 30 people, mostly pale, white skinned Americans, in scrubs, bopping along like little ducklings, trying to look like we are not afraid of the large groups of men standing all about, ogling us. Especially the young, tall blond nurse's in our group. Good thing that I am short, I just walked in the middle of everyone!

This place looks just like Africa! Historically, everyone is from Africa but this truly still is Africa. I wasn't expecting this. And all along the roads, on any previously open parcel of flat land, are the tents. Miles and miles of tents. No distance between them, hardly any air between them. Clothes lines with laundry. Red Cross port-a-potties. UN Peace keeping Troops driving around in the chaotic traffic. What a mess.

And the traffic. I am told that the traffic was terrible pre-earthquake but since then, it is almost non-navigate-able. Pancaked buildings seeping onto the streets; piles, hills really, of rocks and rubble. Small columns of cinder block bricks being built on top of rubble or on top of partially damaged buildings. Everywhere. The cars and tap-tap's just drive around the piles and huge potholes, frequently hitting each other and anything else in their paths. If not for the people going about the activities of daily living: waiting for a tap-tap (small bus), buying food at the market, etc, the earthquake could have occurred last week.

There is no evidence of earth moving equipment and no visible place to put the rubble. The last statistic that I read is that 2-3% of the rubble has been removed and it will take 3-5 years to remove all of the rubble. I believe it. People look hot and are moving slowly. They look exhausted. God, what a terrible place.

Arrived at the hospital which is located on a side street, about 20-30 minutes from the airport. This street, as with most streets, is narrow, gravel covered with potholes. There has been minimal rain but the street is muddy and many of the potholes are filled with water. There are no sidewalks so people walk thru the muddy streets dodging moving vehicles and other people. Both sides of the street have vendors selling food, clothes, pharmaceuticals, cell phones, shoe repair services. The air is hot and smells like Lesotho with its constantly burning garbage fires.

We are deposited into the courtyard, are luggage following in the truck and AGAIN unceremoniously thrown onto the hot cement in the courtyard. I am continuing to mourn my olives and possibly melting Pop Tarts but cannot check on them yet.

We are introduced to the hospital staff, each other, and then given a tour. Highlights of the hospital tour: 1. If you hear gunfire, stay inside. 2. Dominoes Pizza does deliver but will not if there is any danger of Fire, Flood or Kidnapping. Alrighty then.

The hospital is behind a large, orange colored metal gate, now bearing the sign of Project Medishare/University of Miami. The hospital compound is a series of one story, dirty, lime green, very small buildings with a centralized courtyard. If it sounds pretty, its not.

There is a small building that is the pediatric building, an L-shaped house really, which can comfortably hold about 18 patients including incubators and cribs. Presently, there are 35 babies and children, several of the babies are 2-3 in a crib. This does not include at least 30 parents who also sleep next to their children, either on their cots, leaning against their cribs or under the cots and cribs. If they cannot fit in any of these spaces, the parents, mostly women, sleep on cardboard, on the concrete outside the door.

In a separate building there is a ramp leading up to a 4 bed ICU in a room with boarded up windows, connected to a 2 bed ER which is connected to a 10-12 bed Medical/Surgical step down unit. The ICU families sleep on cardboard on the ramp. The step down patient's families sleep on the floor under their loved ones beds/gurneys.

The 2 room Operating Room suites and 4 bed Recovery Room areas are adjacent to the ICU. This is the only area that has running water in the entire hospital; of course, there needs to be water in order for it to run, which occurs about half of the time.

A separate building has a general 12 bed Medical-Surgical unit, mostly caring for spinal cord injuries from the earthquake. There are 4 young men who are quadriplegic and have been abandoned by their families; it is assumed that they will live there for the rest of their lives. Connected to this unit is the Radiology Dept. which has portable X-Ray and Ultrasound machines, both of which are presently broken. And then the lab which is able to do some VERY BASIC lab tests when you can wake up the lab tech. More on that later.

Behind the ER/ICU are 5 sleep rooms for the volunteers, 3 of which have their own bathrooms/showers. See above reference to running water. Outside of our sleep rooms, are 15 port-a-potties for the patients' families and for all of the nurse's to empty patient's bedpans, reusable suction containers, etc. into. Yes, it is nasty. There is also a small area with occasional running water, for the families to wash themselves up and to bring large bowls of water into the hospital, to wash up their loved ones. The morgue is also right there as are a few very small living areas for long term volunteers.

A separate small building has some offices and a "cafeteria" which does not serve food but does function as a 'de facto' break room. This area is usually air-conditioned but when it is not, mosquito netting wrapped around ones body like a sarong, is needed for comfort.

There are armed guards at the gate, carrying what I assume are AK 47's. If someone approaches the gate, the guard questions them and lets them in if the request is legitimate. If not, the person is turned away. We are the only hospital in the area and the "American " hospital so many people approach the gate. If the request is not due to trauma, imminent delivery of a baby or another urgent care matter, the person is turned away. The hospital does run a daily walk-in clinic of sorts, seeing about 150 patients/day, mostly headaches and gastric complaints starting with the earthquake. And those with HIV/AIDS which are approximately 2-20% (depends on who you ask) of the population.

After the tour, we all find our names on the sleep rooms, collect our luggage which has been watched over by an armed guard, meet our roommates, find our assigned units, meet the outgoing staff's and assume patient care. This all occurs in a 2 hour span; pretty amazing, I say.

But first, THE OLIVES!!! I am happy to report, all of them arrived safely intact! The Pop Tarts were OK and not too mushy. PJ was dancing in the courtyard!!!!

There are 7 of us in my sleep room: Jeff, a Nurse Anesthetist from Miami who would leave mid-week, upset that he was not doing "real" earthquake work and was not being treated "appropriately;" Micaela, an RN who was in charge of all of the clinical nursing functioning when we were in the tents. She is only 28, now pursuing her PhD from the U of Washington and smart for days. She is assigned to the ER and is what I want to be when I grow up! Carol, an RN, from Sewanee, Georgia. She is an OB nurse but because there is no real Maternity section in the hospital, she will be working in Peds. During the next week, Carol will personally deliver four women who come to the hospital gate. Noelani, an Occupational Therapist from the Big Island of Hawaii who has lived on the northern Arizona Navajo Reservation for the past 7 years, even building her own hogan. Knowing my love for Hawaii, you can imagine how thrilled I was to meet her!

Jenn, a Physical Therapist, 6 ft tall, from San Diego, married to an European League basketball player from Bosnia. During the next week, she will organize a soccer team composed of all of the patients with amputees, the first of its kind in Haiti. And Jane, an RN from Louisville, Kentucky. In her early 60's and the matriarch of 9 siblings, she was openly defying all of her families wishes by doing this trip. Talked in her sleep a lot, including long conversations with me of which she had no memory. Very funny!

I will be working the 12 hour night shift in the ICU, 7p-7a, with Venice. She is the Haitian-American nurse who is one of the staff returning for the first time. She also speaks Creole which will be a god-send for everyone. There are always translators around but this will be much easier. The 12 hour day shift positions will be worked by 2 nurse's, Kelli and Lauren, both of whom have only been out of school for 15 months. Yikes! I don't know that I could have done this with so little experience. They will struggle during the next week.

The four of us receive report on the only ICU patient that we presently have, Kelli and Lauren start work, the old team leaves and Venice and I go back to our rooms to try to get some sleep for a few hours. Which of course, I cannot do. I am waaay too excited and there is too much to see and do!

Venice and I report to the ICU at 7pm. We receive report on Bed 1, Jeumme, a 22yr old man who was hit by a car 10 days ago. There was head trauma and he is the person who has needed the Vanco that I spoke about previously. He is on a ventilator but is responding and somewhat awake. The doctor's know that there has been some brain damage but cannot yet determine how much. Venice will assume his care because she will be working with the Haitian nurse assigned to him.

One of our tasks for the week, is to work with the Haitian nurse's who are assigned to the ICU, assessing their competencies and continuing to teach them ICU nursing care, that has presumably been done by all of the previous teams. We were also told that hospitals in Haiti don't have a night shift as we know it. The nurse's would leave out any needed medications for the night and LEAVE or DISAPPEAR SOMEWHERE AND SLEEP! We were told that ALL of the Haitian staff will attempt to sleep at night and to go find them after an hour or so!!!!! And this is how it was our first night, and every night, for that matter. The American staff was just stunned! How do we mentor and teach when the staff is gone for half of the 8 hours? There is no apparent urgency on their parts when the ventilator alarms go off or a patient yells in pain. How are we supposed to do this and how are the nurse's ever going to be able to assume care? The patient's will die! Even with Venice's ability to speak Creole, our nurse still slept for 3 hours in a chair in the ICU. This will never work.

With only 1 patient, I was pretty bored. I missed the tents with the energy, the trauma's, everything. I knew that this trip would be different but... Only a few people came into the ER during the night. A man who was robbed and hit over the head with the butt of a rifle. Lots of blood everywhere but thankfully, no internal injuries. The rest of the night, the Haitian and American staffs' slept. Hmmm...

Sunday, August 29th

Slept 6 wonderful hours courtesy of eye patches, ear plugs, my sleeping bag under the a/c and pharmaceuticals. Noelani and I have started to share a cot. My cot is right next to the bathroom door which means I get bumped every time someone uses it and hear everything that occurs. Noelani sleeps against the wall across the room and forgot her sleeping bag. So, she works days and uses the bag, I work nights and use the bag. And my original cot becomes a catch-all area. Heaven! This also means that we receive 2 extra meals a day because the nice Haitian man who delivers our twice a day styrofoam meals is confused about who is living where. Sorry.

The meals are OK. We receive a cold meal about 11am; usually a sandwich or egg salad. And at 3pm we receive a hot meal of meat, a starch and a salad of some kind. Today's meal is potato and cabbage spicy soup which Venice says in a Haitian delicacy that her mom will only make at New Year's. It is wonderful!

The meat is either brown or chicken. The brown mystery meat could be: beef, lamb, goat, or pig. It is small chewy pieces, doesn’t smell bad and tastes OK. So I guess it's OK. The chicken is really small but edible.

The extra meals are not for us. Jane is working in the unit with the 4 quadriplegic men who have been abandoned by their families, plus one man who fell out of a tree and one who was hit by a flying fence. The families of these men have no extra money to buy additional meals so all of these men have no food except the once daily hospital provided meal. Jane takes the extra meals, combines them and feeds the SIX men at night. They are thrilled! But what happens when she leaves?

Just after waking up and surveying the meal delicacies, PJ comes in and asks if I would like to take a trip to JP/HRO, Sean Penn's tent city. Yes! Still wearing the scrub top and shorts I have worked in(no sense in changing), I brush my teeth and jump into the van with PJ. She is going to the tent city to talk with the pharmacist about "sharing" drugs.

JP/HRO is on the grounds of the most expensive country club in PAP. After the earthquake, Sean Penn approached the club's owner, a man from the States, and asked if he could take over his 9 hole golf course country club for the tents. The land would have been taken over by the government anyway, for people needing shelter, as was all non-occupied land, so why not give it to Sean Penn? The owner agreed and JP (the last name initials of the co-creators last names),HRO (Haiti Relief Organization) was created.

The Country Club is a 30 minute ride up through PAP and up hills to a beautiful view of downtown PAP, the harbor and the Caribbean. Wow! Driving through the streets, I sees more pancaked buildings, rubble in the street and people walking everywhere. Slowly. There is some building occurring and some clean-up is apparent but no earth moving equipment or any building equipment is seen.

Sean Penn is in the States right now so we met Beth, the nurse who is running the clinic for the tents. 55,000 people live in tents on the 9 hole course. There is a mayor, some form of government, schools (1 built and operated by Israel Aid) and the least amount of violence and violence towards women than any of the other tent cities. Security is provided by UN Peace Keeping Troops, mainly from Brazil and Bangladesh.

Beth gives us a tour, culminating in the clinic that overlooks the tents down the hill. Two Peace Keepers are sitting on a bench, eating their lunches, looking out to the Caribbean. They look like boys but when I ask to take their pictures, they stand up and very seriously grasp their REALLY BIG GUNS and stare at the camera. At ease, they had beautiful boyish smiles.

The clinic sees 1500 patients/week. Up to four days ago, there had been four Haitian doctor's working in the clinic. But two of the doctor's gave medications that caused two babies to die so they were fired; and the other two left because they "couldn't stand it anymore." So Beth and her staff are continuing on until a couple of doctor's start this week.

Do you remember watching MASH when they would show Battalion Aid? This clinic is Battalion Aid and our hospital is the MASH unit. The clinic is a very large open tent with several litters (cots without legs) on top of large containers. Everything is dark green so I am wondering if some army donated all of the supplies.

The x-ray tent is next door and it currently has the only functioning x-ray machine in Haiti, that can be used for non-paying patients. But the very expensive machine dosen't move! So, when taking an x-ray, four people hold the edges of the litter and move the litter for each picture. It works!

Our visit has become a transport visit. There is a 6 year old little girl who is having severe abdominal pain; the x-ray is not showing any abnormality so our hospital has agreed to assess the little girl. And because there is a nurse who can transport, (ME????) we leave with the little girl in her parent's laps and return to Bernard Mevs.

Kudo's to the driver who tried to avoid most of the large potholes to prevent more pain to the little girl. Return to the hospital, give report on the little girl to the ER staff and head to take a shower. The little girl will be admitted for observation.

7pm-We still have only one ICU patient, Jeumme, who has been there for 11 days. His brother Michel, visits off and on during both shifts, living and sleeping the rest of the time on pieces of cardboard outside the ICU. Michel speaks English Fluently and is ALWAYS wearing a clean, folded with creases, white t-shirt. I so want to ask him how he manages this but it does not seem appropriate.

With only Jeumme as our patient, I have very little to do, so I wander over to Pediatrics to help feed the babies. There are 39 babies/infants/kids and two nurses and they need help. I used to work in the Nursery and I am excited to go back.

With 39 babies, there are parents everywhere! One mother is sleeping under the crib, holding her baby. For several nights, the nurse's have attempted to get the baby into the crib so they can administer an IV medication but the mother refuses. So the nurse just crawls under the crib and administers the med.

I got to feed 3 babies and it was so much fun! I first fed Baby Richardson who is in an incubator due to prematurity and possible neurological issues. The incubator portholes, that are usually covered with some type of plastic, enabling an adult's arms to go thru them, are covered with cardboard so I have to put down the entire incubator door and hope that he stays warm. I cannot imagine that anyone ever gets cold here but that may just be me.

Baby is sooooooo cute with a thick head of tight black curls. As I am feeding him, Carol, one of the Peds nurse's, tells me to beware of something possibly running over my feet. They have seen a mouse running about, "so don't be afraid." I name him Henry but I never see him.

Next is Johnny, in a very small crib. He is also a preemie but his head is "shaped a bit oddly" so I am assuming there is some issue going on. I get to hold him in a blanket while I feed him. And Henri, a preemie who is under Bili-lights to reduce his jaundice. This Bili-lite is really a small suitcase that can be set on any surface. Open the suitcase, put the baby in, plug in the suitcase, and there is light! I am told that this type of light is used in many Third World countries. Genius!

As I am finishing feeding the babies, Carol asks me to stay because Bethany, the other nurse, is going to transport a baby to the General Hospital. While I have been in Peds, a baby was brought into the ER having a presumed asthma attack or something similar. ER gave the baby a breathing treatment which helped but he baby needs to be on continuous oxygen for the next day or so. At 39 babies, we cannot admit anymore so it is decided that the baby will be transported to General Hospital in central PAP. This is the hospital that I mentioned above, that was severely damaged and has beds visible from the street. There is no ambulance available so Bethany with the baby's parents, ride in a pick-up truck driven by one of the Medishare guys. Even though a pick-up truck is considered "too dangerous to be driven at night" there is no other vehicle available so they rode in the truck. She returned an hour later saying, "Don't ever make me go back there." When Bethany arrived at the hospital, she and the family were directed to the Peds unit. When they all walked in with the baby, the one and only nurse, for 40 babies, simply said, "There's no room." Bethany left the parents sitting on an outdoor bench, holding their baby.

Against all reason and advice, Bethany rode in the back of the pick-up on the return ride to the hospital "for some air." "I know that it is scary out there and I saw lots of shadows moving around, but I didn't care."

As I returned to ICU, I saw Michel speaking with an older woman who was sitting against the wall. I smile and Michel motions me over and introduces me to his mother. She has sat there for 11 days and has only seen her son once! She cannot bear to see him as he is. I am stunned and a bit angry at the medical teams. Has no one asked about the mom? Has no one seen her outside?

I tell her that Jeumme is awake and moving around in the bed and that he looks OK. I hold out my hand and she gradually gets up and walks with me into the ICU. I ask her thru Michel, to please not collapse at the bedside. There is very little room between the bed and the wall and there is no neurosurgeon available if she hits her head. Jeumme recognizes his mom and she cries as she holds his hand. She mumbles things to him in Creole, then starts to wail and Michel leads her outside. I hope that I have done the right thing by bringing her in. I later see her sitting against the wall, arms raised, wailing and praying.

I spend the rest of the night tidying up the ICU and assisting some of the translators in covering up the one and only ICU window, with black garbage bags. Everything that we say or do can be heard from the courtyard and there is no way to prevent it. But at least the garbage bags prevent faces in the window.

At 6am, Jeumme starts to have some real respiratory issues, despite being on a ventilator. When someone has these issues, they usually require suctioning from their breathing tube but his machine is not working well. Neither is the second machine that we find. And the third machine is working only a bit better. How in the world are we supposed to take care of someone when we don't even have the basic supplies. THIS IS CRAZY AND WRONG!

We stablize Jeumme and I ask Day Shift to get the suction machines repaired. I am tired and I'm going to bed.

Monday August 30th

I slept eight hours and felt much less angry at the world. I also started to hand out some of the supplies that I brought with me which always cheers me up.

7pm-There are now 4 patients in the ICU. Bed #1-Jeumme, is about the same but not nearly as awake as last night. And the 3 suction machines are still sitting between the beds. Not touched, not repaired.

Bed #2- Soledad. She is 19 yrs old and has been sick since February with various systemic infections. Her care seems to have been hit-or-miss and she is now laying in bed, head arched backwards, intermittently screaming in agony. Her skin is sloughing off from a drug reaction.

Bed #3-Jeannel-27 yr old man who sustained 2 gun shot wounds: one in the right arm and the second in the right abdomen, scraping his buttock. He had surgery today to repair his right arm which now has large iron pins protruding from his arm. He is very uncomfortable.

Bed #4-Leger. 68 yr old man who fell off a ladder and hit his head, 24 hrs ago. He has no feeling below his waist and is starting to tire and not breath well. Both the CT scanner and the main x-ray machine are broken so there is no way to determine if he has had a neck fracture. I am caring for bed's 3&4, Venice has bed's 1&2.

At 2:00am, Jeannel starts to complain of increasing abdominal pain. This pain is different than the general discomfort that he has been experiencing and no amount of pain medicine that I am giving him, is helping the pain. His is becoming disoriented and his vital signs are becoming unstable. Something is not right and I am concerned.

I woke up Negar, our Chief Medical Officer who wanted to x-ray his abdomen. But there are no x-ray capabilities. I drew some blood for lab tests but had to bang on the Lab door for 10 minutes to wake up the Tech. Negar decides to call Dr. Eddy, the surgeon on call, to ask him to see Jeannel. But first, we must find the security guy who has the phone to call Dr. Eddy. Then get the phone to Negar to talk with Dr. Eddy. Dr. Eddy agrees to come in and a driver is sent to get him.

But the driver got lost and for three hours Jeannel's pain increased until the driver could get the doctor to the hospital at 5:15am. It was terrible and I was afraid that Jeannel was going to die. Several family members were at his bedside and were beside themselves with frustration and worry. Jeannel was in the Operating Room by 5:20am and would be there for 8 hours.

At the same time, Leger was put on a breathing machine because he became too tired to breath on his own. Despite the breathing tube, Leger remained alert, nodding his head appropriately to questions asked in Creole. Which made the on-going discussion about future x-rays, even more difficult. 68 is considered "old" in Haiti, usual life span is 55, and financial resources are scarce. Should limited money be spent on an old person who is already a paraplegic and has no chance for any rehabilitation because it dosen't exist? But he is awake and following commands so maybe it would be worthwhile to spend the money to assess if there are any fractures that could influence him eventually going home.

3am-I hear the roosters as I walk outside to empty urine containers. The air is warm and moist.

5am-The flies appear. This happens every morning and will continue until sunrise. Flies, houseflies, "just appear" and are all over the patients. I wish that I had brought my fly swatter.

After Jeannel went to surgery, Leger's niece came in and we washed him up together. When she thought that I wasn't looking, she would take the already used disposable wipes and clean herself.

This discussion about Leger will continue on Day Shift. If the decision is made to do the x-rays, Leger will need to be transported in an ambulance, to one of the PAP Radiology places. Micaela and I volunteer to go on the transport if needed.

After report to Day Shift, I decide to venture outside with Noelani and two of the translators, to get some breakfast. The streets are dusty and muddy. There are vendors in cars and trucks many stopping to set up their stalls and yell at people to stop by. There is an altercation at the hospital gate between 2 men about a motorcycle. We get our rolls with peanut butter and banana's and return to the hospital.

Tuesday August 31st

Slept 5 hours when I am again woken up by PJ, asking if I would like to go to Heartline Ministries. This is an organization that has housed women and children since the earthquake; and has employed women to make purses and other products to be sold. This gives the women some skills and some money to be able to eventually live on their own. Besides sheets that I have brought for the patient beds, I have brought sheets with patterns to be donated to these women. PJ wants me to bring the sheets and personally donate them to the women. Yes!

But by the time the driver arrived, we drove thru traffic, etc. the women had already closed up shop but I was still able to donate the sheets to the couple that run the organization. I also had a chance to meet some of the women, their children and a few very large, mangy dogs. This is a beautiful place that sustained minimal damage. This trip was also an opportunity to drive thru an area that seemed to be barely damaged by the earthquake. There were mainly large, single family homes that were probably privately and appropriately built. What disparity in this country!

Driving back to the hospital, I was able to film about 90 seconds of one of the tent cities and will post it on my blog.

6pm-Arrived back at the hospital to see white smoke pouring from the generator and everyone standing outside, including all of the Medishare "higher-ups." The white smoke did not mean that there was a new Pope, the generator had died! Which meant that there was NO power in any of the hospital. And there is NO emergency generator. Uh-oh.

I ran in and took a shower, planning on going into work early because No power means that the nurse's are manually breathing for the ventilator patients. Then the water stopped.................. Oh, this is going to be a fun night

Walked into a dark ICU at 6:30pm. The only light is coming from flashlights and headlamps. On the list of needed supplies for this trip, is a headlamp. The Bosh-Smith Family had very kindly given me a new head lamp for this trip which I had worm ONCE before I lent it to Dr. Eddy so he could see to operate on Jeannel. So now I ask about my headlamp and nobody seems to knows about it. I am not happy.

No electricity means no a/c and it is Hot. All four patients have relatives standing next to them, fanning them with cardboard. A barely audible symphony of movement. The sweat is saturating our clothes and rolling off our faces.

At 7pm, a patient is brought into the ER who goes into cardiac arrest. No one can see anything until a car is pulled up the ramp and the headlights are shown in. They are really being shown onto the 10 patients in their beds next to the ER but close enough. The patient dies and is quickly taken to the morgue while it is still daylight.

Over the next several hours, favors will be called in and an emergency generator will be borrowed for the hospital. By midnight, we will have large lights outside of our doors, enabling us to at least see our hands in front of us. It is cooler with some fans but very noisy. The ventilators have back-up emergency batteries that last 30 minutes so every 30 minutes they are switched out and recharged. In between times, we bag/breath for the patients. Everyone is very hot and sweaty but still laughing!

While all of this is happening, Jeannel is starting to vomit bile. When he went to surgery at 5:20am this morning, Dr. Eddy found 3 pints of blood in his abdomen from a liver laceration. Apparently the bullet "did not just graze the abdomen." A major abdominal surgery (Billroth II) was done. And now he was vomiting bile which is not good. His vomiting became projectile and as I stood holding the basin for him, his aunt stood next to me humming 'Amazing Grace.' All Jeannel could say was, “Mis a me.“ I am spelling it phonetically but it means, “Oh my God.“ Dr. Eddy was called back in.

At the same time, a man was brought into the ED who had been stabbed in the neck. There was blood everywhere. It looked like a massacre! Fortunately, no major damage was done. A miracle.

Dr. Eddy arrived at midnight and determined that Jeannel will not need surgery. We manipulated some tubes and Jeannel felt better. I hope this doctor knows what he is doing. I ask him about my headlamp and he smiles sheepishly, "I have no idea." It's midnight, I'm hot and sweaty and this man is speaking to me in beautifully French-accented English and all I can say is, "If you find it, keep it." "Merci" he smiles. There are no headlamps available in Haiti, other than the ones that are worn by the volunteers, so I am assuming that Dr. Eddy has never had a lamp; this is my contribution to to the Haiti Medical Society.

2:30am, Leger goes into cardiac arrest. With distant ambient lighting, we resuscitate him. I wake up his niece who has been living sleeping next to the trash can to give her this news. She will lean over his bed the rest of the night.

4:30am, a woman comes into the ED with a huge abdominal mass. She will need surgery asap.

5:45am, a woman comes to the hospital gate, in a Tap-Tap, about to deliver a baby. The Tap-Tap pulls up the ramp as people scatter with their cardboard pieces; the woman is put onto a board and carried into the ER. Carol comes running over from Peds and at 6am a beautiful baby girl is born! Everyone clapped, including all 10 of the patients and their 10 family members who have barely slept all night. AND THEN the guard calls in that there are two more women at the gate, about to deliver. Go Carol! Go Carol!

Venice has managed to sedate Soledad in Bed 2. I find her mother asleep, slumped in a wheelchair outside and bring her inside to an empty cot. Leger's blood pressure has fallen but he remains awake and following commands. The discussion will continue about having x-rays done.

I return to my room at 7:30am and there is no water. I take off my socks because I can't stand the smell and fall asleep in my dirty, sweaty scrubs. Carol is still delivering babies.

Wednesday September 1st

Slept 3 hours and was awakened by Lauren to tell me and Micaela that Leger is being transported NOW. OK. Brush my teeth, put on clean socks and head back to the ICU just in time to jump into the back of the ambulance that has been borrowed from JP/HRO. As I said in my Facebook posting, this was the ultimate E ticket ride! With lights and sirens, Micaela, Jessie, an x-ray tech and myself, flew threw the streets of PAP. I would bag, Jessie would hold the cardiac monitor and Micaela would give IV medicine every time Leger's blood pressure fell which was every 10 minutes or so.

Breathing for a patient usually involves both hands but one hand was needed for the death grip on the handle! Sometimes I had to let go of the handle to preserve the breathing tube and Leger would just look up at me. I would say, "Bonjour, it's OK" and he would look back at me as if to say, "who are you kidding lady?" He never looked frightened, amused really. We flew over and around piles of rubble, intersections, cars, you name it! I wonder how people feel when they hear a siren?

If someone has money, medical care is available and attainable here. We drive to a Radiology center that has no visible damage, freshly painted walls, real leather furniture, outlet covers, a receptionist and two x-ray rooms. Amazing! The CT and X-ray are done, fairly appropriately by US standards, and we reverse our 'joyride' thru PAP. At Leger's expense, I had a great time! And he kept smiling.

After returning Leger to his #4 spot, I returned to my room and slept another 4 hours, in the same clothes. Yuck! Up at 5pm to find out that while I was asleep, two people were brought into the ER, suffered cardiac arrests and died. The SWAT team was called to assist our security and subdue a relative of one of the people who died. And all of the doctor's have gone on strike in PAP because they have not been paid in months. We are the only open hospital.

I need a shower!

Since our generator died and we borrowed one, we have been on city power. We use the generator during the day and city power starting at 5pm. Which seems to mean that we also 'enjoy' the rolling 'brown outs' starting at 6pm. Along with the 'brown outs' we also are starting to have 'water outs.' I just shake my soapy head as I stand in the shower and watch the light and water fade away. And come on. And fade away...

On my way to the ICU, I start collecting cardboard boxes for the families who are living outside on the ICU. This has become my evening ritual and I feel a bit like a dumpster diver but that's OK. The families tear up the boxes to create a bed of sorts on the concrete. Thank God there has been very little rain so far.

AND Jeumme's mother has been visiting him several times a day! I am so excited about this! She greets me with a beautiful smile outside the ICU and says "Merci." I have been carrying around a small ladies head scarf that I had brought with me, thinking that I would give it to someone along the way. I pull out the scarf and handed it to her. Yes, we both cried.

Jeumme is no longer responsive and is getting "the look", the look of someone who will not make it. Oh God.

Soledad has been started on new IV medications and is no longer screaming in agony. These are commonly used IV meds in the US and if she had been in the US, she hopefully would have been appropriately diagnosed and not suffered like this. I feel sad and angry at how much she has suffered. Her mother continues to sleep slumped over in a wheelchair if we can't find her a place to sleep. I gave the mother a "girl bag" of toiletries the other night and she periodically comes in, smiles the most beautiful smile at me and says, "Merci." A mother's love.

Jeannel is feeling much better and is getting feisty with me. He is an engineer by profession, so by definition, has money and privilege and is used to having things his way. He's bigger then me but I'm standing so we agree that he will follow my directions and be respectful and nice.

Leger is the same. Unstable blood pressure and unable to breath on his own. The Haitian Nurse's continue to sleep a good portion of the night as do most of the Haitian staff. How do these folks sleep on concrete at an angle or slumped over in chairs? I know that many of these people live in tents and take 2-3 Tap-Tap's to get to work; maybe they are just exhausted from living.

At 1am, a 5 day old baby having a seizure, is brought into the ER from J/P HRO. We have limited Valium and the Pediatrician, who is just starting his second year of residency in New York, does not know what to do. The staff wakes up PJ who finds more Valium and "talks" the resident through the babys' treatment. We have no cribs available but there is no place else to send the baby so he is put in a crib with another baby. As a reminder, there is no running water in this facility except in the OR, so anytime a patient is touched, we use hand sanitizer. It is a credit to the entire staff, that there is no infection break-out.

At 4:30am, the gate guard calls in that a mother is about to deliver at the gate. The doctor and nurse go running out and there are two small boned, emaciated men, pushing a wheelbarrow that is carrying a woman who has just delivered a baby. The baby, still attached to the umbilical cord, is laying between her legs. There is an older woman and a little boy, about 8 yrs old, with them. I was returning from the Pharmacy and walked over to the scene and just stood there silently as did everyone. All the doctor could say was, "this is amazing." The scene was so pure, so humble and so desperate. We helped the woman onto a board and carried her into the ER. Carol came running over from Peds and cut the cord. There were no clothes for the baby so she wrapped him in a blue chux, the blue pad we put under people if they are incontinent of urine or stool. Carol handed the baby to the mom but the mom would not hold the baby or look at it so she handed the baby to the grandmother. According to the grandmother, the mother has "never been quite right in the head," and has AIDS. The grandmother, so emaciated herself, held the baby and smiled and cooed like any grandma. The little boy was skinny and dirty but very polite to all of us. He is illiterate, no money for school, and possibly also has AIDS. I offered him my leftover rice and beans from dinner and he "inhaled" it. So I found more food for him and his grandmother and that was consumed immediately. I later turned around and the little boy had fallen asleep on the dirty tile floor. I ran back to my room, found a new sheet, and put it over him. One of the nurse's had brought some extra baby clothes with her so she dressed the baby boy in the only sleeper that she had left, a fluffy pink one. We gave the family more food and sanitary napkins for the mom and the family slept for a few hours. Then they all left and walked home, wherever it was.

6:20am-Leger attempts to die but we resuscitate him again.

This was a very emotional 12 hours for the entire staff. After giving report to the day shift, I walked outside to see the sun and Jeumme's mother was standing there wearing the scarf that I had given her. She smiled, put her arm around my waist while grabbing me with her other hand, and walked me around to the area where the families wash up. She took me to her son, Michel, who was sleeping against a wall and woke him up so she could talk with me. Thru Michel, she told me that so was happy and "all was good with God." "It's good, it's OK" as she raised her eyes and arms to the sky. She thanked me for caring for her son (even though I hadn't really) and wished God's blessings on me. I obviously could not tell her that her son was dying so I thanked her and walked away, watching her laugh and smile.

I frequently wonder why I do these trips. What's my purpose? Am I really doing anything? Maybe I was here to help Jeumme and his mom to be together at his death. I don't know.

I returned to the ICU to speak with Micaela who was organizing an ethics committee meeting in the next hour, to discuss continuing aggressive treatment on Jeumme. It was obvious that his neurological status was diminishing but without any available testing equipment, there was no way to determine his present and future status. I said to Micaela, "The mom is ready. She has made a 180 degree change and she is ready."

This is Thursday morning, when did that happen?

Thursday September 2nd

Slept 5 hours and as I sat up to go to the bathroom, I found a note on my pillow, telling me that Jeumme had died peacefully about noon. I immediately went over to the ICU to find his mother and brother but they and Jeumme's body had already left.

I returned to my room and Jane was sitting up. She had been woken up 30 minutes earlier with screaming coming from the ICU. When Jeumme died, his mother, brother and uncle were at his bedside. The mother and uncle were OK but Michel went berserk, screaming, attempting to take Jeumme's body. Jeumme's father and two brother's were killed in the earthquake, and a second brother had died two months ago from earthquake related injuries. And now Jeumme. And Michel was the only son left. Security had to take him outside and settle him down.

Not able to sleep, I decide to wander over to the Logistics Office to look for the Director of Nursing. I have some thoughts on nursing education at the hospital and I am wondering if she is open to some feedback. I find Stephanie, the Director and as I am flapping my jaws about nursing issues, she asks me if: 1. I want a job at the hospital and 2. Will I will meet with the Medishare Administrator, Gillian, who is responsible for hospital operations? She is in PAP now but returning to Miami on Friday. I agree to meet Gillian the next day.

6pm ‘brown out’ and ‘water out’ but I have showered at 5:30pm. THEY will not get me!

Bed 1 remains empty. Bed 2-Soledad has been transferred to the Step-Down Unit and her mom is sleeping on the floor next to her. Bed 3-Jeannel is still in pain but doing much better. He will sleep during most of the night. Bed 4-Leger is still there. There are no apparent fractures but he still has no feeling below his waist and is unable to breath on his own. and no one quite knows what to do.

9pm-A 22 yr old man is brought into the ER complaining of severe abdominal pain. He had his appendix removed last week and has not done well since. It will later be determined that the appendectomy was "botched." "Botched?" How does this happen?

We have no more Sharps Containers. Those are the large, red plastic containers that we put all of our needles and syringes into. Even in the tents, we only put the needles into the containers and not the syringes, so as to preserve space. Even with the syringes in the trash, we have no more room so every small plastic container available is holding syringes with needles. Needles are sticking out of everywhere! I had requested containers from Supply but they have only sent cardboard boxes that are not appropriate. That means they don't have any appropriate ones available either. So, I batted my eyelashes at one of the Medishare guys and he took a large Hazardous Waste Container, cut a hole in the top, duct taped down the sides and called it a Sharps Container. Yes!

The ICU was fairly quiet all night but with the Doctor's on strike, ER was hopping with everything: dog bites, stab wounds and other wounds from fights, etc. etc. etc. But no more newborn babies.

Friday, September 3rd

Slept 5 hours, getting up at 1pm to meet Gillian. I am assuming that these are my last moments of sleep until tomorrow night in Miami. Brushed my teeth and wandered over in my 18hr old dirty scrub top, shorts and a sweatshirt, thinking, "I agreed to meet these people to say what exactly? How presumptious of me to agree to meet with 'the suits' and share my thoughts on how to improve their little corner of paradise. Oh well."

I meet with Gillian who is talking faster than I can even think. Then one of the Bitar brother's walks in, then the other, all of them saying, "Oh my God, we knew that there were issues but had no idea that it was this bad. Would you come back and help us teach the nurse's if we can find some money?" Huh? I told them that I would think about it. The Brother's Bitar even kissed me goodbye. I should have showered!

Spent the next 2 hours giving away everything that I had intended to, packed and ate my last styrofoam container of brown mystery meat with brown rice and beans. The previous evenings, the city power grid went into their rolling brown out's at 6pm but today it was 4:30pm. The hospital's begged/borrowed and stolen emergency generator kicked on but only for the patient care units so our sleep rooms very quickly became little sauna's. And then the water went out! "Oh no no no no no no" I say, NOT AT ALL AMUSED! But then poof it was on long enough for night shift to bathe and then, no more. We laughed and joked and said very bad words, but what about the people who endure this everyday, in this hospital, the streets, the tents?

Every other Friday, the long term volunteers have a bar-b-q with real food: normal sized chicken, brown meat that can actually be defined, salads, and drinks. Volunteers from other NGO's come over and the time is used as a TGIF event. One of the men brought his guitar and with several of the translator's in tow, went from unit to unit, singing for the patients and families. The atmosphere was light and there was much laughter from everyone. The families were amazed, smiling, clapping out in the courtyard. This is the video that I posted on Facebook. These are also the times that I am reminded why I love doing this work and how privileged I am to be able to meet and spend time with all of the people that I do. Priceless!

All 4 of the patients are quiet and resting. Solidad's mom, Dorce Antonine, comes in to thank me for the little goodie bag that I had given her and requests to have her picture taken with me. She is so slender, skinny really, with premature gray hair and is wearing the same dress that she has had on for 3 days but her smile is lighting up the room. Solidad is awake and eating and knows her mom. Dorce points to the sky and thanks God and us for caring for her daughter. And then she gives me a hug and walks out of the door. I just shake me head. Solidad will be transfered to another facility tomorrow but her mother leaves her phone number with Venice, asking that I call her before I leave Haiti. I have not done it but I must.

The rest of the shift is spent telling Jeannel that he really is OK and is going to live despite his pain. He says that I am mean because I keep STRONGLY encouraging him to deep breath and cough to prevent pneumonia. I tell him that I have been called worse and I know that he will secretly miss me. And I can see that he secretly smiles at me. Funny guy!

And cleaning up Leger who had not had a bowel movement since his admission 6 days ago. But due to my insistence that he was having increased abdominal pain and really needed to poop, was given medication(Lactulose) and was now POOPING HIS BRAINS OUT! FOR 5 HOURS! What can I say?

There were a few ER admissions for broken bottles over the head, a gentleman having a severe asthma attack and a young woman, 9 mos pregnant but only dilated to 1cm, SCREAMING her head off in pain. Carol again comes running over from Peds and in her best southern drawl, sweetly tells the young lady that she has hours to go, will be OK and to go home. The woman stops screaming, gets off of the gurney and walks out.

And the cutest little baby girl, brought to the ER by her dad, wearing her best pink finery, with a huge abdomen. She had worms. Her dad was given some medication and they went home.

And then there are the men vying for Venice's attention. Venice is tall, slender, quiet, soft spoken, Haitian-American and very alluring to the young Haitian male employees. All week they have been coming in to assist us but it is really Venice that they speak to and just hang around. She truly does nothing to lead them on but they are like little love-sick puppy dogs. So funny! This, their final night, is their last chance to...we don't really know. But they all want time with her which she gives to them in 15 minute increments. I am hysterical as they wander in, she sits with them and lets them talk and then they leave. She just rolls her eyes and tells them that she will not be their Facebook friend or any other kind of friend that could result in an American visa. Nice guys but way out of their league.

At 7am, we give our final report and walk out the door. My friend Kat is arriving today from Seattle so I know that our patients will be in good hands. We take pictures with the ER staff, complimenting each other on what a pleasure it has been to work with each. And it has. These are great people!

Saturday, September 4th:

No opportunity to sleep after giving report to the day shift nurse's. The new volunteer group is landing as we speak so all of us who are leaving must be packed and out of our cots by 8am. I am mostly packed but am avoiding putting my large bag of unspeakably sweaty, dirty laundry into the suitcase so as to not contaminate the suitcase; it's not mine. But first, I get brave and venture out of the hospital gate, all by myself, to buy some breakfast. Two small roles with peanut butter==$1. Probably paid too much but...what is a dollar in the scheme of things? Also walked down a few vendors to an older gentleman who sells bottled Coca-Cola. I had bought one from him the other day, accompanied by two of the translators, who gypped him out of some money during their haggling transaction. I felt really bad about it so walked down and handed him a dollar, smiled and walked away. He looked stunned. I'm sure that he didn't remember me but it was the principle of the whole thing.

The entire time that I was outside of the gate, the hospital guard was watching me, motioning me to return. Even in the light of day, it is not safe for me to be out alone.

I found Jeannels' family, folding up their "beds" of cardboard and sheets and gave them a final report on his night. They discussed whether they should try to transfer him to the Dominican Republic or to the US, "he has a Visa now" for better care. I suggested that he was not stable enough to be moved anywhere and transferring him to the US would involve a private jet with a nurse on board. I know that this family has money but not that much. They understood. I think. I hope.

Back to the sleep room for a shower and change into “real” clothes. The water was on, woohoo, and I must confess, I showered for longer than 2 minutes. Even put on some make-up and earrings! I had been up since 1pm Friday and foolishly laid down for about 1 second before I realized that it was A VERY BAD IDEA. Keep moving Kathleen, you can sleep tonight in Miami.

The new group of 45 people, arrived at 9:30am, clean and fresh but already sweating a little; tired looking and a lot scared looking. At 11:30, I returned to the ICU to assist Kelli and Lauren in giving an orientation to the six new nurse's, two of whom looked stunned. Just stunned. I hope that I didn't scare them.

I returned to Jeannel's family, still living along the fence, to say goodbye. Jeannels' father, Mr. Louis, is in his 70's and has slept every night on a small mat, next to the fence, within earshot of the ICU, in case his son needed him. Mr. Louis took off his hat, put his hand on his heart and said, "Thank you for taking care of my son. May God's blessings be always upon you." I just shook my head and cried. Such gratitude in the middle of such pain.

All 30 of us loaded up into 2 vans, laughing and giggling as many of the patients and families waved to us and yelled "Merci." Some looked very sad or just resigned. What were they thinking? We were leaving and they weren't and probably never would. We were going back to America, their dream. I was crying as we drove out as Jeannel's family and I waved to each other.

20 minute ride to the airport as I sat in the middle of the front seat, my legs positioned over the ?heater under the seat. Oh, to be cold again. Watched cars either trying to hit each other or trying not to hit each other, hard to tell. Chaotic airport scene with uniformed men attempting to help us. I was dragging a suitcase that was literally half my height but I was bound and determined to not let go of it. I became quite adept at saying, "No, no, no." They were not happy with me.

Metal detector, bag weighing, immigration, metal detector, up the stairs, down the stairs, take off the shoes, put on the shoes, walk to the gate, que up for a seat assignment even though I thought that I already had one. Wait in line............ you get the idea.

With still 2 hours before our plane left, about 20 of us found a small cafe and purchased some 'real' food: hot dogs, sandwiches, fries and cold beer. There was a TV on with some MTV type videos, sung in both English and French. And then, one by one, the heads fell to the table, exhausted. I wish that I had taken a picture of all of these heads, mostly night shift folks who had been up for 24 hours, flat on the tables. Pure exhaustion and pretty funny looking! Micaela and I made it to the seats at the gate before our heads went down. I think I slept about 2 minutes(really!) before my row was called. I actually felt a bit refreshed.

We flew on an American Airlines 757, packed with Haitians or Haitian-Americans and the 30 of us. Anybody who can leave this place, does. The remaining folks have no choice but to stay. I sat next to a Haitian-American man who left Haiti several years ago, moved to Miami and started an export business of American donated clothes being sent to Haiti. He was at his PAP home during the earthquake and described to me, the terror of the shaking, and the sounds of crashing brick and screaming people. His home was partially damaged but no one was killed.

"There was no government before the earthquake and most certainly, no government now. They don't even know how many of us live in this country. When the earthquake occurred, the government moved in and took over one of the Drug Lord's house's up in the hills. The Haitian people feel powerless and unable to do anything. Thank you for asking and caring" he said. "Without the Americans, I do not know what would have happened. We would not have survived without God's help and your help."

You are welcome! There are no other words!

90 minute plane ride through a rain storm; sit on the tarmac because of lightening which means no planes can move in or out; finally get a gate and shuffle off to Immigration.

If you have ever spent time in Miami's airport, you know that it is LARGE, REALLY LARGE. We landed at Gate 50 and Immigration was through 4 halls, 3 moving walkways, 2 flights of stairs, and around a couple of surly looking guards to 36 lines of people waiting to go through Passport Control. 18 lines for non-US residents, 18 lines for US citizens or residents. The lines are long and quiet with minimal restlessness. People look tired but are patient, shuffling and reshuffling their travel documents.

All 35 lines appear to be moving in an expedient manner. Most folks seem to get thru in 30 seconds or less except MINE. Either there is a new INS employee at the desk or I am in the line with all of the terrorists! It took 40 minutes to process the 7 people in front of me. And of the 7 people, 5 were pulled out for further questioning. The young Asian man in front of me kept shifting from foot to foot; I am hoping that he was concerned about possibly missing a connecting flight, or he had to go to the bathroom, or he was a terrorist. I am hoping that it was #1 or 2. He was pulled over.

I made it through in 15 seconds; I guess that I don't fit the profile.
Again, down a hall, around the corner, down the escalator, around a corner to baggage claim. Pull my suitcase off of the carousel and take one escalator to the International Hotel that is in the International Terminal. Again I say, what a brilliant idea to put a hotel convenient to international travelers.

It is now 10pm and not daring to lay down because I have now been up for 32+ hours, I find an open restaurant and have a meal of conch fritters(a local fish) and a Bailey's Irish Cream on the rocks. The restaurant is so quiet and clean. One hour later I laid down on my bed and all I could think of was, "Mattresses are flat! I never realized this before."

Sunday September 5th:

12 hours after I laid down, I was awakened by the cleaning lady pounding on the door, asking me in perfect Spanglish, if I was leaving today. I mumbled something and she went away. I slept another hour and woke up feeling like I had been hit by a truck. For 8 days, I had worked 12 hours on, 12 hours off, never once really feeling tired. Now, I could barely move or think.

I also had not had any coffee in 8 days. The only coffee available was Nescafe(bleech!) But even to have that, I would have needed water. And if I had had the water, I would have needed electricity for the microwave to heat the water. And then I would have needed a cup. Life is way too short to hunt and forage for this everyday. So off I went to find a cup of coffee. And thanks to the advertising gods, Starbucks and Dunkin' Donuts were right next to each other. I had one of each, thank you very much.

I flew from Miami to Charlotte, meeting and talking with Naomi, a woman who I had met in the security line. She was born in Suriname, raised in Venezuela, Aruba and Switzerland. She attended boarding school in South Carolina; worked as an EMT and firefighter; and now was employed by a global communications company in Caracas. She speaks 5 languages and was on her way home to Kansas City. We discussed globalization, discrimination, immigration and her struggles of being bi-cultural: dark skinned from South America but not sharing the Black American struggles. We agreed that we had figured out the answers for the worlds' ills, in only 90 minutes, if only someone would listen to us! Great fun!

Five hours later I was home in Phoenix. Be it ever so humble...

Sometime during the night, I woke up to go to the bathroom and I was totally disoriented. I thought that the small floor fan next to the bed, was a suction machine. And why was there light coming from the right side of the room when the port-a-potties were on the left? It was 5 minutes before my disorientation cleared.

Follow Up:

1. Jeannel spent a few more days in the ICU and then was transferred to the Step-Down unit. He was discharged home 3 days latter thanking us for caring for him and pushing him.

2. Leger was unable to breath off of the ventilator so the family decided just to take him home to die. The doctor's pulled out his breathing tube, loaded him into the back of a pick-up truck and he died on his way home. Rest in Peace Leger.

3. I gave away all of the linen, most of my scrubs, and two small suitcases. I returned with a small purse and the 2 large suitcases inside of each other, filled mainly with dirty laundry. When the earthquake occurred, the entire freshmen nursing class at the University, was taking semester exams. Most of the University was demolished including the entire class and several instructors. Additionally, many upper level nursing students and most of all of the medical students were killed. And then there were all of the medical staff's that were injured or killed at work. The nurse's that we worked with were primarily living in tents. Their clothes were clean but tattered. Thru several conversations, many of them agreed, with bright smiles and tears, to take our scrubs. "Don't worry, we can wash them!" They were thrilled!

4. As of October 1, Project Medishare will have no more money to operate the hospital . They are hoping for a grant thru the International Red Cross which apparently has millions of donated money that has not been distributed as yet. No reason given. If the hospital closes, the people will die from lack of care. Partners in Health did break ground this past week to build a 332 bed hospital, in central PAP, that will have critical care capabilities. Tentatively, it will open in late 2011 but there is no staff presently can care for these patients.

5. Tropical Storm Matthew that passed over PAP last week, destroyed most of J/P HRO’s Battalion Aid tent and all of the volunteer tents. No one was seriously hurt. Hundred’s of the tents in the tent cities were destroyed because they have thinned with the persistent sun.

This has been a very different trip for me. The camaraderie and collegiality of working "in the tents" as part of a MASH unit, is gone. I was aware of this before the trip but I was still disappointed.

I am tired and discouraged. Haiti is a sad, tired, desperate place with no apparent functioning government. Only the volunteer organizations and the churches are supporting the people. The people are tired, grieving and without hope of anything changing or improving. They seem hopeless but are not helpless. I cannot blame them. At the same time, whenever I spoke to any of the Haitian people with my simple "Bonjour", I was always given a gracious smile and spoken to. They have the whitest teeth!

FAQ:

1. Where is the money? Everyone is asking this and no one knows. There is minimal rubble removal and rebuilding, and all of the rebuilding that I saw was being done with the same cinder blocks and mushy sand cement that was used pre-earthquake. There are no building codes and no routine use of rebar. if there is another quake, these buildings will collapse.
2. Has anything improved? See #1.
3. Were you able to use the sheets? As I mentioned earlier, I sent out an e-mail to several friends, asking for some used sheets that I could take with me on this trip. I assumed that I would get “some” BUT it never occurred to me that our third bedroom would start looking like Macy’s Linen Dept. with all of the donations!
I was able to take pieces from every donation that I received and I will send the remaining sheets with some people who will be volunteering in November. THANK YOU SO MUCH for your generosity. I cannot tell you how thankful the families of the patients were, to have clean sheets on their loved ones beds. I would frequently look at the sheets, knowing who gave them to me and just smile.

I have been asked to consider returning to the hospital for an extended period of time, to assist in teaching the nurse's to eventually be able to give the level of care that the American nurse's are presently giving. I am honored to be asked but have too many pro and con thoughts to make a decision now. I just don't know.

I know that the title of this letter is "It's all about the Olives" but it should really be: "This is a barely surviving country, 90 minutes south of one of the most powerful countries in the world."

Thank You for traveling with me.

Kathleen